| B |
|
| Baby Alpacer |
See Alpaca Fibre
|
| Backtanning |
An After-treatment To Improve The
Wet Fastness Of Dyed Or Printed Silk Or Nylon, Using Either Natural Or
Synthetic Tanning Agents.
|
| Badla |
Flat Metallic Wire, Often
Silver-gilt, Used In Brocading And Embroidery.
|
| Baghal Bandi |
A Kind Of Tunic Or Jacket, Worn
Shorts And Fastened Under The Armpits.
|
| Balabar |
An Outer Garment, Worn By Men,
Related In Shape To The Coat-like Ashcan
|
| Balagny Cloak |
First Half Of 17th Century, Cloak Or
Cape With Wide Collar, In France Named After A Military Hero.
|
| Balanced Stripes |
A Design Of Stripes That Are Even In
Width And Spacing.
|
| Baldrick |
(french Bandelier) Sword Hanger,
Usually Decorated With Exquisite Embroidery, (often Metal Thread
Embroidery) And Worn From The Right Shoulder To The Left Hip, Usually
Over The Waistcoat Or Earlier Bolero-style Doublet, But Under The Coat
Or Justaucorps. Frequently Worn Over The Coat To Show Off The
Embroidery, When The Baldrick Had Become Very Broad And Long. The Sword
(rapier, Later Also Dress-sword) Hangs Very Low At The Knees.
|
| Bale Breaker |
A Machine Used For Opening Cotton
Direct From A Bale. Layers Of Compressed Cotton Are Taken From A Bale
And Fed Into A Machine Where The Tearing Action Of Two Coarse Spiked
Rollers Moving In Opposite Directions, Produces A More Open Mass Of
Tufts.
|
| Bale Dyeing |
(1) Dyeing Of Loose Stock ( Usually
Synthetic-polymer Fibre ) In The Form Of An Unpacked Bale.,(2) In The
USA, A Low Cost Process For Dyeing Cotton Fabric To Produce A Coloured
Warp And White Weft.
|
| Bandanna |
A Print Design Characterized By
White Or Brightly Colored Motifs On A Dark Or Bright Ground, Most Often
Red Or Navy. Done By Discharge Or Resist Printing But Originally Done In
India By Tie Dyeing. 2. A Fabric, Usually Cotton With Such A Design.
|
| Bandelier |
See Baldrick.
|
| Bandhani |
A Process Of Patterning Cloth By
Tie-dyeing In Which The Design Is Reserved On The Undyed Cloth By Tying
Small Spots Very Tightly With Thread To Protect Them From The Dye.
Especially Popular In Rajasthan And Gujarat.
|
| Banyan |
Name Given In England To Men's
Jacket In Indian Cloth. The Term Is Mostly Used For Indoor Garments
'dressing Gowns'.
|
| Barathea |
An Indistinct Twill Or Broken Rib-
Usually A Twilled Hopsack Weave- With A Fine Textured ,slightly Pebbled
Surface . Often Of Silk Or Silk Blended With Wool, Used For Neckties,
Women's Fine Suits And Coats Men's And Women's Evening Wear.
|
Bare Pychon Ka Pyjama
|
A Pyjama (q. V) With Wide, Flared
Legs. |
| Bark Cloth |
Originally Referred To Fabric Made
From The Bark Of Trees. Now The Term Is Used To Describe Fabric With A
Surface Texture Resembling Tree Bark.
|
| Barras |
A Coarse Linen Fabric Similar To
Sackcloth; Originally Produced In Holland.
|
| Barrier Fabric |
Fabrics That Are Barriers To Dust ,
Dust Mites And Associated Allergens.
|
Bas De Cotte / De Jupe / De Robe
|
In The Second Half Of The 17th
Century This Term Was Used For The Lower Part Of The Petticoat Or Skirt,
Which Went With The Petticoat Or Skirt Body, Covered By The Gown Body. |
| Basic Dye |
A Cationic Dye Characterized By Its
Substantivity For Basic-dyeable Acrylic And Basic-dyeable Polyester
Fibres, Especially The Former. The Term Was Originally Applied To
Tannin-mordant Cotton Dyes.
|
| Basin Waste; Basineés |
The Silk Waste Consisting Of Cocoons
That Could Not Be Completely Reeled Because Of Too Frequent Breaks In
The Thread.
|
| Basket Stitch |
A Knit Construction With Mostly Purl
Loops In The Pattern Courses To Give A Basket Weave Look
|
| Basket Weave/hopsack |
A Variation Of Plain Weave In Which
2 Or More Yarns In Both The Warp And Weft Are Woven Side By Side To
Resemble A Basket.
|
| Basques |
Mid-17th Century. French Word For
Short Tabs At Bodices And Male Doublets That Extended Below The Waist.
Those Jackets With Basques Were Worn In Combination With Skirts Instead
Of Gowns.
|
| Bast Fibre |
Fibre Obtained From The Stems Of
Various Plants.
|
| Batik |
A Traditional Indonesian Dyeing
Process In Which Portions Of Fabric Are Coated With Wax And Therefore
Resist The Dye. The Process Can Be Repeated To Achieve Multi-color
Designs. Fabric Usually Has A Veined Appearance Where The Dye Has Gone
Through The Cracks In The Wax.
|
| Batiste |
1. A Sheer, Fine, Soft, Light
Weight, Plain Weave Fabric Usually Of Combed Cotton Or Polyester/cotton.
It Often Has Lengthwise Streaks Due To The Use Of 2 Ply Yarns. Used For
Shirts Blouses Dresses Nightwear And Lingerie. 2. A Lightweight Smooth
All Wool Fabric. 3.a Sheer Silk Fabric.
|
Batt; Batting (u.s.a.)
|
See Web |
| Bave |
The Silk Fibre Complete With Its
Natural Gum ( Sericin ) As It Is Withdrawn From A Cocoon. It Is Composed
Of Two Brins.
|
| Beaded |
Referring To A Fabric Embellished
With Beads.
|
| Beading Lace |
A Machine Made Lace With A Row Of
Openwork Holes Designed For The Insertion Of A Decorative Ribbon.
|
| Beaver Cloth |
A High Quality, Heavy, Soft Wool
Cloth With A Deep, Smooth Nap. Used In Overcoats.
|
| Bedford Cord |
A Woven Fabric Constructed To Show
Pronounced Rounded Cords In The Warp Direction With Sunken Lines Between
Them. Used In Trousers, Uniforms, Hats, Upholstery.
|
| Beet |
A Bundle Or Sheaf Of Tied Flax Crop
Or Straw.
|
| Beetled |
A Finishing Process In Which A
Fabric Usually Linen Or Cotton Is Pounded To Produce A Hard Flat Surface
With A Sheen.
|
| Bellies (wool) |
The Coarser Quality Of Wool From The
Underside Of Sheep.
|
| Bemberg |
Brand Of Cupramonium Rayon.
|
| Bengaline |
A Durable Plain Weave Fabric
Characterized By Widthwise Cords Formed By Using Fine Warp Yarns And
Course Weft Yarns, Used In Dresses, Coats, Suits, Ribbons, Draperies.
|
| Bias |
Any Direction In The Fabric Which
Does Not Exactly Flow In The Direction Of The Weft Yarn (vertical Yarns)
Or Warp Yarns (horizontal Yarns) Of A Fabric. A True Bias Makes An Angle
Of 45 Degree Across The Length And Width Of A Fabric, Fabric Cut On A
Bias Has Maximum Stretch.
|
| Bicomponent Fibre |
A Man-made Fibre Having Two Distinct
Polymer Components. Both Components Are Themselves Usually Fibre
Forming. Wool And Some Other Animal Fibres Are Sometimes Considered To
Be Bicomponent Since They Possess A Side-by-side Configuration Of The
Ortho- And Para-cortex Which Results In Crimp In The Fibre.
|
| Binche Lace |
A Lace In Which The Lace Motifs Are
Appliquéd To A Machine Made Net Ground. Originally Made In Binche
Belgium.
|
| Birdseye |
1. A General Term For A Fabric With
A Surface Texture Of Small, Uniform Spots That Suggest Bird's Eyes. Can
Be Woven Or Knit. 2 A Design That Suggests A Bird's Eyes.
|
| Birefringence |
The Difference Between The
Refractive Index Of A Fibre Measured Parallel To The Fibre Axis Nii And
That Measured Perpendicular To The Fibre Axis Nl:, Dn = Nii - Nl,
Birefringence Is Frequently Used As A Measure Of The Orientation Of The
Macromolecules Within The Fibre.
|
| Biscuit |
One Of Several Narrow Cylindrical
Cheeses Of Yarn Wound As A Composite Package On A Single Former Side By
Side But Not Touching. Biscuit Packages Are Used As The Take-up In Some
Synthetic-fibre Extrusion Systems.
|
| Bisu |
See Husks
|
| Blanket Plaid |
A Large Vividly Colored Plaid Design
Such As Those Often Found On Blankets.
|
| Blaze |
See Cocoon Strippings, Also Termed
Keba.
|
| Bleached |
Chemical Treatment To Remove
Impurities And Whiten The Fabric. It Can Be Done Either In Preparation
For Dyeing And Finishing Or To Obtain Clean Whites In Finished Fabric.
|
| Bleaching |
The Procedure Of Improving The
Whiteness Of Textile Material, With Or Without The Removal Of Natural
Colouring Matter And/or Extraneous Substances, By A Bleaching Agent.
|
| Bleaching Agent |
A Chemical Reagent Capable Of
Destroying Partly Or Completely The Natural Colouring Matter Of Textile
Fibres, Yarns And Fabrics, And Leaving Them White Or Considerably
Lighter In Colour. Examples Are Oxidizing And Reducing Agents. Amongst
The Former, Hydrogen Peroxide Is Widely Used.
|
| Blending |
A Process Or Processes Concerned
Primarily With Efficient Mixing Of Various Lots Of Fibres. Blending Is
Normally Carried Out To Mix Fibres, Which May Be Of Different Physical
Properties, Market Values, Or Colours.
|
| Blinding |
A Marked And Undesirable Loss Of
Lustre Of Fibres Caused By Wet Processing.
|
| Blister Fabric |
See Cloque/ Blister Fabric
|
| Blitz |
A Light To Medium Weight Woven
Fabric With A Filament Warp And Spun Weft. Often Has A Very Fine
Crosswise Rib. Common Blends Are Acetate/rayon And Polyester/rayon.
|
| Block Copolymer |
A Copolymer In Which The Repeating
Units In The Main Chain Occur In Blocks, E.g.,-(a)m-(b)n-(a)p-(b)q-
,where A And B Represent The Repeating Units.
|
| Block Printed |
A Hand Printing Method Using Wood,
Metal, Or Linoleum Blocks. The Design Is Carved On The Blocks , One
Block For Each Color. The Dye Is Applied To The Block Which Is Pressed
Or Hammered Against The Fabric.
|
| Blotch Print |
Refers To A Print In Which A Large
Area Of Uniform Color Is Printed. The Printed Ground Is Referred To As
The Blotch.
|
| Blowing Room |
The Room In A Cotton Spinning Mill
Where The Preparatory Processes Of Opening, Cleaning And Blending Are
Carried Out.
|
| Bobbin Lace |
A Handmade Lace Using A Pillow To
Hold Pins Around Which Thread Is Intertwined. Bobbins Are Used To Hold
And Feed The Thread. Also Called Pillow Lace Or Bobbinet.
|
| Boiled Wool |
A Wool Or Wool Blend Fabric, Woven
Or Knitted Which Has Been Given A Course, Crepey Texture By Heavy
Felting Or By Putting It In A High Temperature Bath.
|
| Boiling Off |
See Degumming.
|
| Boll |
A Seed Case And Its Contents, As Of
Cotton Or Flax.
|
| Bolt |
See Piece
|
| Bonded |
A Fabric Composed Of 2 Or More
Layers Joined Together With An Adhesive ,resin, Foam, Or Fusible
Membrane.
|
| Bonnet |
Ladies' Headdress Covering The Back
Of The Head And Having The Brim In Funnel Form To Shade The Face.
|
| Book |
A Parcel Of Hanks Of Raw Silk Whose
Total Mass Is Usually 2 Kg.
|
| Boot-hose |
In The First Half Of The 17th
Century, Stockings Usually Without Feet Worn In The Soft Fashionable
Boots With Turned Cup-shaped Tops ("bucket"-tops). The
Lace-edge Of The Boot-hose Is Turned Over The Boot-tops. ("cavalier"-style).
They Were Worn Over The Silk Stockings To Protect Them In The Long
Boots.
|
| Border |
A Design Placed Along The Edge Of
The Fabric Or Engineered In Such A Way That It Will Fall On The Edge Of
The Finished Product. Border Designs Are Frequently Used In Skirts And
Dresses.
|
| Botanical |
Referring To Designs Dominated By
Motifs Depicting Plant Life.
|
| Botany Wool |
A Term Applied To Tops, Yarns And
Fabrics Made From Merino Wool. The Term Originated From Botany Bay In
Australia.
|
| Boucle |
1.a Fancy Yarn With An Irregular
Pattern Of Curls And Loops 2. A Fabric Made From Boucle Yarn.
|
| Bourdalou |
Hat-ribbon, Finer Than Grosgrain,
Round The Foot Of The Crown Of Hats. This Trimming Is Sometimes Finished
Off With A Buckle And Has Been In Use Since The 17th Century.
|
| Bourdon Lace |
A Machine Made Lace On A Mesh Ground
Usually In A Scroll Design Outlined With A Heavy Cord.
|
| Bourette |
A Fancy Plied Yarn With Nubs And
Knots Of Another Color.
|
| Bourette |
See Noil
|
| Bourrelet |
A Double Knit Fabric With A Rippled
, Corded Texture Running Horizontally.
|
| Bow-string Hemp |
See Sansevieria
|
| Brandenburg Coat |
Fourth Quarter Of 17th Century, A
Loose Overcoat With Turned-back Cuffs. The Sleeves Are Made In One With
The Rest Of The Garment.
|
| Breaking (bast Fibres) |
The Deformation Of The Plant
Structure By Flattening The Stem, Loosening The Bond Between The Fibre
Bundles And The Wood, And Breaking The Woody Part Into Short Pieces, To
Facilitate Their Removal From The Fibre By Scutching. Breaking By Means
Of Rollers Is Often Referred To As Rolling.
|
Breaking Elongation; Breaking
Extension
|
The Elongation, Or Extension, Of A
Substance At Its Breaking Load. |
| Breaking Length |
The Length Of A Specimen Whose
Weight Is Equal To The Breaking Load.
|
Breaking Load; Breaking Force
|
The Load That Develops The Breaking
Tension. The Recommended Unit Of Measurement Is The Newton. |
| Breaking Stress |
The Maximum Stress Developed In A
Specimen Stretched To Rupture. The Force Is Usually Related To The Area
Of The Unstrained Specimen. If The Actual Stress, Defined In Terms Of
The Area Of The Strained Specimen, Is Used, Then Its Maximum Value Is
Called The Actual Breaking Stress.
|
| Breaking Tension |
The Maximum Tension Developed In A
Specimen Stretched To Rupture. It Is Correctly Expressed In Newton's.
|
| Breathable Coated |
Refers To A Coating That Repels
Water But Allows Water Vapor (thus Perspiration) To Pass Through,
Allowing Garments To Be Comfortable And Waterproof . Used In Garments
For Active Wear And Winter Sports.
|
| Breton Lace |
Lace Embroidered On An Open Net With
Heavy Often Brightly Colored Yarn. May Be Made By Hand Or Machine. Said
To Have Originated In The Breton Region Of France.
|
| Bright |
Descriptive Of Textile Materials,
Particularly Man-made Fibres, The Natural Lustre Of Which Has Not Been
Substantially Reduced. Bright May Denote The Presence Of A Very Small
Amount Of Delustrant, Insufficient To Reduce The Lustre Of The Fibre
Significantly.
|
Brightening Agent
|
See Optical Brightner |
| Brin |
A Single Filament Of Silk Resulting
From The Degumming Of The Bave Withdrawn From The Cocoon.
|
| Broadcloth |
A Fine Tightly Woven Plain Weave
Fabric With A Faint Rib . Usually Of Cotton Or Cotton Blend But Can Be
Of Any Fiber. Frequently Used In Men's Shirts. 2. A Fine Soft Woven Wool
Fabric, Plain Or Twill Weave, With A Smooth Napped Face.
|
| Brocade |
A Heavy Rich- Looking Jacquard
Fabric With Contrasting Surfaces Or A Multicolor Design . Used In
Upholstery , Draperies Evening Wear.
|
| Brocatelle |
A Jacquard Fabric Similar To Brocade
With The Design In A Raised Appearance From Being Formed With A Satin Or
Twill Weave. Used In Draperies And Upholstery.
|
| Broken Twill |
A General Term For Twill Weave
Fabrics In Which The Twill Line Changes Direction.
|
| Brushed/napped |
A Finishing Process To Raise A Nap
On Surface Of The Fabric Using Wire Brushes Or Other Abrasive Materials.
|
| Brushstroke |
Refers To A Print Style In Which
Color Looks As If It Had Been Applied With A Brush.
|
| Brussels Lace |
May Be A Bobbin Or Needlepoint Lace
Usually On A Machine Made Ground. Sometimes Designs Are Appliquéd
On The Ground. As Brussels Belgium Is Important In The History Of
Lace-making, Many Different Types Of Lace Are Called Brussels Lace.
|
| Buckram |
A Stiff , Open Weave, Coarse Fabric
Often Used As An Interlining To Give A Garment Shape. Also Used In Hats,
Bookbinding.
|
| Buckskin |
A Heavy Satin Weave Fabric, Often Of
Fine Merino Wool, With A Smooth Face
|
| Buffalo Check |
A Bold Check Pattern With Blocks Of
2 Or 3 Contrasting Colors. Often Red And Black In A Twill Weave.
|
| Bulked Yarn |
A Yarn That Has Been Treated
Mechanically, Physically Or Chemically So As To Have A Noticeably
Greater Voluminosity Or Bulk.
|
| Bunch (flax) |
The Aggregate Of Pieces, Which Are
Tied Up With Two Or More Ties Preparatory To Baling.
|
| Bunting |
A Plain, Drapey, Loosely Woven
Fabric Most Often Used For Flags And Decoration. Also Called Banner
Cloth.
|
| Burl |
A Wool Trade Term For An
Imperfection.
|
| Burlap/hessian |
A Coarse Open Fabric Made Of Jute
Used For Upholstery Lining And Bagging . When Dyed Or Printed It Is Used
In Drapery, Wall Coverings, Upholstery.
|
| Burn Out |
A Fabric Made Of 2 Fibers Then
Printed With A Chemical That Dissolves One Of The Fibers Thus Creating A
Design .often Done On Velvet.
|
| Burry Wool |
Wool Contaminated With Vegetable
Impurities Adhering To The Fleece.
|
| Buta |
Literally, "a Plant". A
Floral Motif, Derived Generally From Persian Sources, Much Used In
Indian Textile Design, And Traditionally Rendered As A Flowering Plant
With A Curling Bud At The Top. The Motif Is Also Sometimes Reduced To A
Floral Pattern Designed Within The Form Of The Plant.
|
| Butcher's Linen |
A Strong, Heavy, Plain Weave Linen
Fabric With Uneven, Thick And Thin Yarns In Both Warp And Weft - Often
Used In Tablecloths And Aprons.
|
| Buti |
A Diminutive Of Buta (q.v.), Very
Commonly Used In Indian Textile Design.
|
| Butt |
To Level The Root Ends Of Flax Straw
At Any Stage Of Processing By Vibrating It Upright On A Flat Surface,
Either By Hand Or Mechanically.
|
| Butter Muslin |
See Muslin
|
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