| B |
|
| Baby
Alpacer |
See Alpaca
Fibre
|
| Backtanning |
An
After-treatment To Improve The Wet Fastness Of Dyed Or Printed Silk
Or Nylon, Using Either Natural Or Synthetic Tanning Agents.
|
| Badla |
Flat Metallic
Wire, Often Silver-gilt, Used In Brocading And Embroidery.
|
| Baghal
Bandi |
A Kind Of Tunic
Or Jacket, Worn Shorts And Fastened Under The Armpits.
|
| Balabar |
An Outer
Garment, Worn By Men, Related In Shape To The Coat-like Ashcan
|
| Balagny
Cloak |
First Half Of
17th Century, Cloak Or Cape With Wide Collar, In France Named After
A Military Hero.
|
| Balanced
Stripes |
A Design Of
Stripes That Are Even In Width And Spacing.
|
| Baldrick |
(french
Bandelier) Sword Hanger, Usually Decorated With Exquisite
Embroidery, (often Metal Thread Embroidery) And Worn From The Right
Shoulder To The Left Hip, Usually Over The Waistcoat Or Earlier
Bolero-style Doublet, But Under The Coat Or Justaucorps. Frequently
Worn Over The Coat To Show Off The Embroidery, When The Baldrick Had
Become Very Broad And Long. The Sword (rapier, Later Also
Dress-sword) Hangs Very Low At The Knees.
|
| Bale
Breaker |
A Machine Used
For Opening Cotton Direct From A Bale. Layers Of Compressed Cotton
Are Taken From A Bale And Fed Into A Machine Where The Tearing
Action Of Two Coarse Spiked Rollers Moving In Opposite Directions,
Produces A More Open Mass Of Tufts.
|
| Bale Dyeing |
(1) Dyeing Of
Loose Stock ( Usually Synthetic-polymer Fibre ) In The Form Of An
Unpacked Bale.,(2) In The USA, A Low Cost Process For Dyeing Cotton
Fabric To Produce A Coloured Warp And White Weft.
|
| Bandanna |
A Print Design
Characterized By White Or Brightly Colored Motifs On A Dark Or
Bright Ground, Most Often Red Or Navy. Done By Discharge Or Resist
Printing But Originally Done In India By Tie Dyeing. 2. A Fabric,
Usually Cotton With Such A Design.
|
| Bandelier |
See Baldrick.
|
| Bandhani |
A Process Of
Patterning Cloth By Tie-dyeing In Which The Design Is Reserved On
The Undyed Cloth By Tying Small Spots Very Tightly With Thread To
Protect Them From The Dye. Especially Popular In Rajasthan And
Gujarat.
|
| Banyan |
Name Given In
England To Men's Jacket In Indian Cloth. The Term Is Mostly Used For
Indoor Garments 'dressing Gowns'.
|
| Barathea |
An Indistinct
Twill Or Broken Rib- Usually A Twilled Hopsack Weave- With A Fine
Textured ,slightly Pebbled Surface . Often Of Silk Or Silk Blended
With Wool, Used For Neckties, Women's Fine Suits And Coats Men's And
Women's Evening Wear.
|
Bare Pychon
Ka Pyjama
|
A Pyjama (q. V)
With Wide, Flared Legs. |
| Bark Cloth |
Originally
Referred To Fabric Made From The Bark Of Trees. Now The Term Is Used
To Describe Fabric With A Surface Texture Resembling Tree Bark.
|
| Barras |
A Coarse Linen
Fabric Similar To Sackcloth; Originally Produced In Holland.
|
| Barrier
Fabric |
Fabrics That
Are Barriers To Dust , Dust Mites And Associated Allergens.
|
Bas De
Cotte / De Jupe / De Robe
|
In The Second
Half Of The 17th Century This Term Was Used For The Lower Part Of
The Petticoat Or Skirt, Which Went With The Petticoat Or Skirt Body,
Covered By The Gown Body. |
| Basic Dye |
A Cationic Dye
Characterized By Its Substantivity For Basic-dyeable Acrylic And
Basic-dyeable Polyester Fibres, Especially The Former. The Term Was
Originally Applied To Tannin-mordant Cotton Dyes.
|
| Basin
Waste; Basineés |
The Silk Waste
Consisting Of Cocoons That Could Not Be Completely Reeled Because Of
Too Frequent Breaks In The Thread.
|
| Basket
Stitch |
A Knit
Construction With Mostly Purl Loops In The Pattern Courses To Give A
Basket Weave Look
|
| Basket
Weave/hopsack |
A Variation Of
Plain Weave In Which 2 Or More Yarns In Both The Warp And Weft Are
Woven Side By Side To Resemble A Basket.
|
| Basques |
Mid-17th
Century. French Word For Short Tabs At Bodices And Male Doublets
That Extended Below The Waist. Those Jackets With Basques Were Worn
In Combination With Skirts Instead Of Gowns.
|
| Bast Fibre |
Fibre Obtained
From The Stems Of Various Plants.
|
| Batik |
A Traditional
Indonesian Dyeing Process In Which Portions Of Fabric Are Coated
With Wax And Therefore Resist The Dye. The Process Can Be Repeated
To Achieve Multi-color Designs. Fabric Usually Has A Veined
Appearance Where The Dye Has Gone Through The Cracks In The Wax.
|
| Batiste |
1. A Sheer,
Fine, Soft, Light Weight, Plain Weave Fabric Usually Of Combed
Cotton Or Polyester/cotton. It Often Has Lengthwise Streaks Due To
The Use Of 2 Ply Yarns. Used For Shirts Blouses Dresses Nightwear
And Lingerie. 2. A Lightweight Smooth All Wool Fabric. 3.a Sheer
Silk Fabric.
|
Batt;
Batting (u.s.a.)
|
See Web |
| Bave |
The Silk Fibre
Complete With Its Natural Gum ( Sericin ) As It Is Withdrawn From A
Cocoon. It Is Composed Of Two Brins.
|
| Beaded |
Referring To A
Fabric Embellished With Beads.
|
| Beading
Lace |
A Machine Made
Lace With A Row Of Openwork Holes Designed For The Insertion Of A
Decorative Ribbon.
|
| Beaver
Cloth |
A High Quality,
Heavy, Soft Wool Cloth With A Deep, Smooth Nap. Used In Overcoats.
|
| Bedford
Cord |
A Woven Fabric
Constructed To Show Pronounced Rounded Cords In The Warp Direction
With Sunken Lines Between Them. Used In Trousers, Uniforms, Hats,
Upholstery.
|
| Beet |
A Bundle Or
Sheaf Of Tied Flax Crop Or Straw.
|
| Beetled |
A Finishing
Process In Which A Fabric Usually Linen Or Cotton Is Pounded To
Produce A Hard Flat Surface With A Sheen.
|
| Bellies
(wool) |
The Coarser
Quality Of Wool From The Underside Of Sheep.
|
| Bemberg |
Brand Of
Cupramonium Rayon.
|
| Bengaline |
A Durable Plain
Weave Fabric Characterized By Widthwise Cords Formed By Using Fine
Warp Yarns And Course Weft Yarns, Used In Dresses, Coats, Suits,
Ribbons, Draperies.
|
| Bias |
Any Direction
In The Fabric Which Does Not Exactly Flow In The Direction Of The
Weft Yarn (vertical Yarns) Or Warp Yarns (horizontal Yarns) Of A
Fabric. A True Bias Makes An Angle Of 45 Degree Across The Length
And Width Of A Fabric, Fabric Cut On A Bias Has Maximum Stretch.
|
| Bicomponent
Fibre |
A Man-made
Fibre Having Two Distinct Polymer Components. Both Components Are
Themselves Usually Fibre Forming. Wool And Some Other Animal Fibres
Are Sometimes Considered To Be Bicomponent Since They Possess A
Side-by-side Configuration Of The Ortho- And Para-cortex Which
Results In Crimp In The Fibre.
|
| Binche Lace |
A Lace In Which
The Lace Motifs Are Appliquéd To A Machine Made Net Ground.
Originally Made In Binche Belgium.
|
| Birdseye |
1. A General
Term For A Fabric With A Surface Texture Of Small, Uniform Spots
That Suggest Bird's Eyes. Can Be Woven Or Knit. 2 A Design That
Suggests A Bird's Eyes.
|
| Birefringence
|
The Difference
Between The Refractive Index Of A Fibre Measured Parallel To The
Fibre Axis Nii And That Measured Perpendicular To The Fibre Axis
Nl:, Dn = Nii - Nl, Birefringence Is Frequently Used As A Measure Of
The Orientation Of The Macromolecules Within The Fibre.
|
| Biscuit |
One Of Several
Narrow Cylindrical Cheeses Of Yarn Wound As A Composite Package On A
Single Former Side By Side But Not Touching. Biscuit Packages Are
Used As The Take-up In Some Synthetic-fibre Extrusion Systems.
|
| Bisu |
See Husks
|
| Blanket
Plaid |
A Large Vividly
Colored Plaid Design Such As Those Often Found On Blankets.
|
| Blaze |
See Cocoon
Strippings, Also Termed Keba.
|
| Bleached |
Chemical
Treatment To Remove Impurities And Whiten The Fabric. It Can Be Done
Either In Preparation For Dyeing And Finishing Or To Obtain Clean
Whites In Finished Fabric.
|
| Bleaching |
The Procedure
Of Improving The Whiteness Of Textile Material, With Or Without The
Removal Of Natural Colouring Matter And/or Extraneous Substances, By
A Bleaching Agent.
|
| Bleaching
Agent |
A Chemical
Reagent Capable Of Destroying Partly Or Completely The Natural
Colouring Matter Of Textile Fibres, Yarns And Fabrics, And Leaving
Them White Or Considerably Lighter In Colour. Examples Are Oxidizing
And Reducing Agents. Amongst The Former, Hydrogen Peroxide Is Widely
Used.
|
| Blending |
A Process Or
Processes Concerned Primarily With Efficient Mixing Of Various Lots
Of Fibres. Blending Is Normally Carried Out To Mix Fibres, Which May
Be Of Different Physical Properties, Market Values, Or Colours.
|
| Blinding |
A Marked And
Undesirable Loss Of Lustre Of Fibres Caused By Wet Processing.
|
| Blister
Fabric |
See Cloque/
Blister Fabric
|
| Blitz |
A Light To
Medium Weight Woven Fabric With A Filament Warp And Spun Weft. Often
Has A Very Fine Crosswise Rib. Common Blends Are Acetate/rayon And
Polyester/rayon.
|
| Block
Copolymer |
A Copolymer In
Which The Repeating Units In The Main Chain Occur In Blocks,
E.g.,-(a)m-(b)n-(a)p-(b)q- ,where A And B Represent The Repeating
Units.
|
| Block
Printed |
A Hand Printing
Method Using Wood, Metal, Or Linoleum Blocks. The Design Is Carved
On The Blocks , One Block For Each Color. The Dye Is Applied To The
Block Which Is Pressed Or Hammered Against The Fabric.
|
| Blotch
Print |
Refers To A
Print In Which A Large Area Of Uniform Color Is Printed. The Printed
Ground Is Referred To As The Blotch.
|
| Blowing
Room |
The Room In A
Cotton Spinning Mill Where The Preparatory Processes Of Opening,
Cleaning And Blending Are Carried Out.
|
| Bobbin Lace |
A Handmade Lace
Using A Pillow To Hold Pins Around Which Thread Is Intertwined.
Bobbins Are Used To Hold And Feed The Thread. Also Called Pillow
Lace Or Bobbinet.
|
| Boiled Wool |
A Wool Or Wool
Blend Fabric, Woven Or Knitted Which Has Been Given A Course, Crepey
Texture By Heavy Felting Or By Putting It In A High Temperature
Bath.
|
| Boiling Off |
See Degumming.
|
| Boll |
A Seed Case And
Its Contents, As Of Cotton Or Flax.
|
| Bolt |
See Piece
|
| Bonded |
A Fabric
Composed Of 2 Or More Layers Joined Together With An Adhesive
,resin, Foam, Or Fusible Membrane.
|
| Bonnet |
Ladies'
Headdress Covering The Back Of The Head And Having The Brim In
Funnel Form To Shade The Face.
|
| Book |
A Parcel Of
Hanks Of Raw Silk Whose Total Mass Is Usually 2 Kg.
|
| Boot-hose |
In The First
Half Of The 17th Century, Stockings Usually Without Feet Worn In The
Soft Fashionable Boots With Turned Cup-shaped Tops ("bucket"-tops).
The Lace-edge Of The Boot-hose Is Turned Over The Boot-tops. ("cavalier"-style).
They Were Worn Over The Silk Stockings To Protect Them In The Long
Boots.
|
| Border |
A Design Placed
Along The Edge Of The Fabric Or Engineered In Such A Way That It
Will Fall On The Edge Of The Finished Product. Border Designs Are
Frequently Used In Skirts And Dresses.
|
| Botanical |
Referring To
Designs Dominated By Motifs Depicting Plant Life.
|
| Botany Wool |
A Term Applied
To Tops, Yarns And Fabrics Made From Merino Wool. The Term
Originated From Botany Bay In Australia.
|
| Boucle |
1.a Fancy Yarn
With An Irregular Pattern Of Curls And Loops 2. A Fabric Made From
Boucle Yarn.
|
| Bourdalou |
Hat-ribbon,
Finer Than Grosgrain, Round The Foot Of The Crown Of Hats. This
Trimming Is Sometimes Finished Off With A Buckle And Has Been In Use
Since The 17th Century.
|
| Bourdon
Lace |
A Machine Made
Lace On A Mesh Ground Usually In A Scroll Design Outlined With A
Heavy Cord.
|
| Bourette |
A Fancy Plied
Yarn With Nubs And Knots Of Another Color.
|
| Bourette |
See Noil
|
| Bourrelet |
A Double Knit
Fabric With A Rippled , Corded Texture Running Horizontally.
|
| Bow-string
Hemp |
See Sansevieria
|
| Brandenburg
Coat |
Fourth Quarter
Of 17th Century, A Loose Overcoat With Turned-back Cuffs. The
Sleeves Are Made In One With The Rest Of The Garment.
|
| Breaking
(bast Fibres) |
The Deformation
Of The Plant Structure By Flattening The Stem, Loosening The Bond
Between The Fibre Bundles And The Wood, And Breaking The Woody Part
Into Short Pieces, To Facilitate Their Removal From The Fibre By
Scutching. Breaking By Means Of Rollers Is Often Referred To As
Rolling.
|
Breaking
Elongation; Breaking Extension
|
The Elongation,
Or Extension, Of A Substance At Its Breaking Load. |
| Breaking
Length |
The Length Of A
Specimen Whose Weight Is Equal To The Breaking Load.
|
Breaking
Load; Breaking Force
|
The Load That
Develops The Breaking Tension. The Recommended Unit Of Measurement
Is The Newton. |
| Breaking
Stress |
The Maximum
Stress Developed In A Specimen Stretched To Rupture. The Force Is
Usually Related To The Area Of The Unstrained Specimen. If The
Actual Stress, Defined In Terms Of The Area Of The Strained
Specimen, Is Used, Then Its Maximum Value Is Called The Actual
Breaking Stress.
|
| Breaking
Tension |
The Maximum
Tension Developed In A Specimen Stretched To Rupture. It Is
Correctly Expressed In Newton's.
|
| Breathable
Coated |
Refers To A
Coating That Repels Water But Allows Water Vapor (thus Perspiration)
To Pass Through, Allowing Garments To Be Comfortable And Waterproof
. Used In Garments For Active Wear And Winter Sports.
|
| Breton Lace |
Lace
Embroidered On An Open Net With Heavy Often Brightly Colored Yarn.
May Be Made By Hand Or Machine. Said To Have Originated In The
Breton Region Of France.
|
| Bright |
Descriptive Of
Textile Materials, Particularly Man-made Fibres, The Natural Lustre
Of Which Has Not Been Substantially Reduced. Bright May Denote The
Presence Of A Very Small Amount Of Delustrant, Insufficient To
Reduce The Lustre Of The Fibre Significantly.
|
Brightening
Agent
|
See Optical
Brightner |
| Brin |
A Single
Filament Of Silk Resulting From The Degumming Of The Bave Withdrawn
From The Cocoon.
|
| Broadcloth |
A Fine Tightly
Woven Plain Weave Fabric With A Faint Rib . Usually Of Cotton Or
Cotton Blend But Can Be Of Any Fiber. Frequently Used In Men's
Shirts. 2. A Fine Soft Woven Wool Fabric, Plain Or Twill Weave, With
A Smooth Napped Face.
|
| Brocade |
A Heavy Rich-
Looking Jacquard Fabric With Contrasting Surfaces Or A Multicolor
Design . Used In Upholstery , Draperies Evening Wear.
|
| Brocatelle |
A Jacquard
Fabric Similar To Brocade With The Design In A Raised Appearance
From Being Formed With A Satin Or Twill Weave. Used In Draperies And
Upholstery.
|
| Broken
Twill |
A General Term
For Twill Weave Fabrics In Which The Twill Line Changes Direction.
|
| Brushed/napped |
A Finishing
Process To Raise A Nap On Surface Of The Fabric Using Wire Brushes
Or Other Abrasive Materials.
|
| Brushstroke |
Refers To A
Print Style In Which Color Looks As If It Had Been Applied With A
Brush.
|
| Brussels
Lace |
May Be A Bobbin
Or Needlepoint Lace Usually On A Machine Made Ground. Sometimes
Designs Are Appliquéd On The Ground. As Brussels Belgium Is
Important In The History Of Lace-making, Many Different Types Of
Lace Are Called Brussels Lace.
|
| Buckram |
A Stiff , Open
Weave, Coarse Fabric Often Used As An Interlining To Give A Garment
Shape. Also Used In Hats, Bookbinding.
|
| Buckskin |
A Heavy Satin
Weave Fabric, Often Of Fine Merino Wool, With A Smooth Face
|
| Buffalo
Check |
A Bold Check
Pattern With Blocks Of 2 Or 3 Contrasting Colors. Often Red And
Black In A Twill Weave.
|
| Bulked Yarn |
A Yarn That Has
Been Treated Mechanically, Physically Or Chemically So As To Have A
Noticeably Greater Voluminosity Or Bulk.
|
| Bunch
(flax) |
The Aggregate
Of Pieces, Which Are Tied Up With Two Or More Ties Preparatory To
Baling.
|
| Bunting |
A Plain,
Drapey, Loosely Woven Fabric Most Often Used For Flags And
Decoration. Also Called Banner Cloth.
|
| Burl |
A Wool Trade
Term For An Imperfection.
|
| Burlap/hessian |
A Coarse Open
Fabric Made Of Jute Used For Upholstery Lining And Bagging . When
Dyed Or Printed It Is Used In Drapery, Wall Coverings, Upholstery.
|
| Burn Out |
A Fabric Made
Of 2 Fibers Then Printed With A Chemical That Dissolves One Of The
Fibers Thus Creating A Design .often Done On Velvet.
|
| Burry Wool |
Wool
Contaminated With Vegetable Impurities Adhering To The Fleece.
|
| Buta |
Literally, "a
Plant". A Floral Motif, Derived Generally From Persian Sources,
Much Used In Indian Textile Design, And Traditionally Rendered As A
Flowering Plant With A Curling Bud At The Top. The Motif Is Also
Sometimes Reduced To A Floral Pattern Designed Within The Form Of
The Plant.
|
| Butcher's
Linen |
A Strong,
Heavy, Plain Weave Linen Fabric With Uneven, Thick And Thin Yarns In
Both Warp And Weft - Often Used In Tablecloths And Aprons.
|
| Buti |
A Diminutive Of
Buta (q.v.), Very Commonly Used In Indian Textile Design.
|
| Butt |
To Level The
Root Ends Of Flax Straw At Any Stage Of Processing By Vibrating It
Upright On A Flat Surface, Either By Hand Or Mechanically.
|
| Butter
Muslin |
See Muslin
|
