| G |
|
| Gabardine |
A Tightly Woven
Durable Twill, Usually 2x2 Right Handed, With A Distinct Twill Line.
Common Used In Men's And Women's Trousers, Rainwear And A Variety Of
Other Uses.
|
| Gait (flax) |
A Large Handful
Of Loose, Pulled Flax, Stood Up On End In A Cone Form To Dry.
|
| Gait (lace
Machines) |
(1) The
Distance Between The Centres Of Adjacent Comb Blades., (2) A Measure
Of The Distance Over Which A Thread Is Moved,
|
| Gait
(weaving) |
A Full Repeat
Of The Draft In The Healds, Or In The Case Of Jacquard, In One
Complete Row Of The Harness
|
| Gait; Gait
Up (weaving) |
General Terms
Used To Describe The Positioning Of The Warp, Healds, And Reed In A
Loom, In Readiness For Weaving. Where Drop Wires Are Mounted On The
Warp During Warp Preparation, Gaiting Also Includes The Positioning
Of The Drop Wires.
|
| Gaiting
(knitting) |
See Gating
(knitting)
|
| Galants Or
Gallants |
Small Ribbon
Bows Which Were Worn In The Mid 17th Century In The Hair And
Attached To The Garments In Various Places.
|
| Galatea |
A Durable, Warp
Faced, Left Handed Twill Fabric Often Found In White And Stripes .
Used In Children's Wear, Uniforms.
|
| Galloon |
Lace.
|
| Gamla Buti |
A Popular Motif
In Textile Design In India, Consisting Of Flowers Of Different Kinds
Growing In A Flowerpot, Neatly Arranged.
|
| Gamma Value |
The Mean Number
Of Xanthate Groups Per 100 Glucose Residues In Cellulose Xanthate.
|
| Garters |
Ribbon Tied
Around The Leg To Hold Up The Stockings.
|
| Gas |
See Singe
|
| Gas Fume
Fading |
An Irreversible
Change In Hue Which Occurs When Textiles, Particularly Cellulose
Ethanoate ( Acetate) And Triethanoate (triacetate) Dyed With Certain
Blue Anthraquinone Disperse Dyes Are Exposed To Oxides Of Nitrogen
Which Arise From, For Example, Gas Or Storage Heaters.
|
| Gassed Yarn |
A Yarn That Has
Been Passed Through A Flame Or Over A Heated Element To Remove
Surface Fibres.
|
| Gating
(knitting) |
The Relative
Alignment Of 2 Sets Of Knitting Elements E.g., Needles, On Knitting
Machines. Two Forms Of Needle Gating (rib And Interlock) Are Common
And May Be Interchangeable On The Same Machine. Types Of Gating Are:
(a) Interlock Gating: Interlock Gaiting (knitting) - The
Opposed Alignment Of One Set Of Needles With The Other On A Knitting
Machine. (b) Purl Gating : Purl Gaiting (knitting), The Opposed
Alignment Of Tricks Of Two Needle Beds Lying In The Same Plane, On A
Machine Equipped With Double-headed Needles. (c) Rib Gating : Rib
Gaiting (knitting), The Alternate Alignment Of One Set Of Needles
With The Other On A Machine Equipped With Two Sets Of Needles
Arranged To Knit Rib Fabrics. Also Termed Gaiting
|
| Gauze |
A Light-weight,
Open-texture Fabric Produced In Plain Weave Or Simple Leno Weave.
|
| Gauze
Weaving |
A Term Commonly
Used As A Synonym For Leno Weaving; Strictly, A Method Of Producing
The Simpler Types Of Light-weight Fabric By Leno Weaving.
|
| Gauze/cheesecloth |
A Loosely
Woven, Thin, Sheer, Plain Weave Fabric Usually Cotton.
|
| Gear-crimped
Yarn |
A Form Of
Textured Yarn In Which The Heated Yarn Is Passed Between A Pair Of
Gear Wheels Or Through Some Similar Device.
|
| Gel Dyeing |
A Continuous
Tow Dyeing Method In Which Soluble Dyes Are Applied To Wet-spun
Fibres (e.g., Acrylic Or Modacrylic Fibres) In The Gel State (i.e.,
After Extrusion And Coagulation, But Before Drawing And Drying).
|
| Genappe
Yarn |
A Gassed
Worsted Yarn. (genappe In Belgium.)
|
| Generic
Name |
When Used Here
A Name To Distinguish Different Classes Of Textile Fibre. For
Natural Fibres, Distinguishing Attribute Is The Fibre Source; For
Man-made Fibres (see Fibre, Man-made) Chemical Difference, Which
Often Results In Distinctive Property Differences, Is The Main Basis
For Classification: Other Attributes Are Included Where Necessary.
Generic Names Are Normally Used As Adjectives; Are Descriptive Of
The Nature Of The Fibre Or Filament Components Of The Associated
Object (yarn, Top, Sliver, Fabric, Garment, etc). The Attributes
Used For Specification Of The Generic Names Of Man-made Fibres Are
However Not Necessarily Identical With The Attributes Used For
Naming Chemical Molecules., The International Organization For
Standardization Has Published, In Iso 2076, A List Of The Generic
Names And Definitions Of The Different Categories Of Man-made Fibres
At Present Manufactured On Industrial Scale For Textile And Other
Purposes. These Definitions And Categories Are Used Throughout This
Publication Where Possible.. Other Lists Of Fibre Names Have Been
Produced In Connection With Textile Labelling Legislation (e.g., In
The EC Textile Labelling Directive And The U.S. Federal Trade
Commission's Textile Fiber Products Identification Act).
|
| Geometric |
Refers To
Designs Dominated By Relatively Simple, Clearly Defined Geometric
Shapes.
|
| Georgette |
A Lightweight,
Plain Weave, Crepe Fabric With A Pebbly Texture And Slightly Raspy
Hand. Uses High Twist Yarns Which Alternate Between S And Z Twist
Every Thread Or 2 In Both Warp And Weft . Used For Blouses, Dresses.
|
| Georgette |
A Fine,
Light-weight, Open-texture Fabric, Usually In A Plain Weave, Made
From Crepe Yarns, Usually Having Two S-twisted And Two Z-twisted
Yarns Alternately In Both Warp And Weft.
|
| Geotextile |
A Textile
Material Used By Civil Engineers As A Component Of Earthworks.
|
| Ghagho |
A Woman's
Dress, Closely Related To The Abbo (q.v.). The Skirt Part Of The
Abagho Was Often More Flared Than That Of An Abbo, The Ample Gathers
At Either Side Of The Waist Lending It Peculiar Gracefulness When
The Wearer Moved.
|
| Ghaghra |
Skirt, Usually
With A Great Deal Of Flare. The Simple Ghaghras Have Only One
Vertical Seam, Which Turns The Cloth Or Ghaghra-pata Into A Tube,
Fastened With A Drawstring Passing Through A Long, Narrow Slot At
The Waist. Flared Ghaghras Are Made Up Of, Several Triangular Gored
Pieces Stitched Together.
|
| Gherdar |
Flared With An
Ample Skirt, As In A Gherdarjama.
|
| Ghundi |
Loop; Generally
Used To Hold The Little Button-like Boss Called The Tukma.
|
| Ghutanna |
A Short Paoan
(q. V.), Worn By Men, Tight And Ending Just Below The Knees. Much
Favoured In 19th Century Sikh Punjab.
|
| Gigging |
The Process Of
Raising A Nap On Fabrics By Means Of A Teazle Machine.
|
| Gill Box |
A Drafting
Machine, Used In Worsted Processing, In Which The Motion Of The
Fibres Is In Part Controlled By Pins Fixed On Moving Bars (pinned
Fallers).
|
| Gilling |
A System Of
Drafting In Which The Direction Of The Fibres Relative To One
Another In A Sliver Is Controlled By Pins.
|
| Gin Cut
Cotton |
Cotton That Has
Been Damaged In Ginning By The Cutting Saws To The Extent That Its
Value Is Reduced.
|
| Gingham |
Light To Medium
Weight, Plain Weave Fabric. It Is Usually A Cotton Or Cotton Blend
Yarn Dye In A Color And White Or 2 Color Check Design.
|
| Gingham |
A Plain-weave,
Light-weight Cotton Fabric, Approximately Square In Construction, In
Which Dyed Yarns, Or White And Dyed Yarns, Form Small Checks Or,
Less Usually, Narrow Stripes., Note: If Fibres Other Than Cotton Are
Used The Term Should Be Suitably Qualified (e.g. Viscose Rayon
Gingham).
|
| Ginning |
A Process That
Removes Cotton Fibres (lint) From The Seed.
|
| Glass
(fibre) |
A Term Used To
Describe Fibres Made Of Mixed Silicates.
|
| Glaze |
To Produce A
Smooth, Glossy, Plane Surface On A Fabric By Heat, Heavy Pressure,
Or Friction., Note: Glazing May Be Produced Intentionally, E.g., By
Friction Calendering, Or As A Fault.
|
| Glazed |
A Finish
Resulting In A Smooth, Glossy Surface On The Fabric. Usually The
Fabric Is First Treated With Resin, Wax, Starch Or Other Substances
Then Calendered.
|
| Glen Plaid
( Also Called Glen Urquhart) |
A Popular
Scottish District Check Made Of Elements Of Houndstooth And Guard's
Check Often With A Fine Line Overplaid In A Contrasting Color.
|
| Gossypium. |
The Generic
Name Of The Cotton Plant.
|
| Gota |
Narrow Ribbon
Made Of 'gold' Or 'silver' Thread.
|
| Graft
Polymerization |
The Production
Of A Branched Macro-molecule, With A High Molecular Weight Backbone
Of One Polymeric Species, To Which A Second Polymer Is Attached
(grafted) At Intervals.
|
| Grain |
Another Word
Used For The Length Wise (weft Yarn) Or Cross-wise (warp Yarn)
Threads Of The Fabric.
|
| Grass
Bleaching |
A Process For
Bleaching Linen Cloth After It Has Been Washed By Exposing It, While
Spread Our On A Grass Lawn Or Field Known As A Green, To The Action
Of The Elements.
|
| Grassing
(crofting) |
See Grass
Bleaching
|
| Grease Wool |
Sheep's Wool
Still Containing The Natural Grease.
|
| Greasy
Piece |
A Piece Of
Woollen Fabric As It Comes From The Loom
|
Greasy
Wool; Grease Wool
|
Sheep's Wool
Still Containing The Natural Grease. |
Green Flax
(obsolescent)
|
Scutched Flax
Produced From Deseeded Straw Without Any Intermediate Treatment Such
As Retting. |
| Greige |
See Grey Goods
|
| Greige |
Fabric That Has
Not Been Bleached, Dyed Or Finished After Production. If Woven
Sometimes Called Loomstate.
|
| Grenadine |
A Leno Weave
Fabric With High Twist Yarns Often With Woven In Stripes, Checks Or
Other Patterns . Used For Dresses, Blouses Curtains.
|
| Grey Goods |
Woven Or
Knitted Fabrics As They Leave The Loom Or Knitting Machine, I.e.,
Before Any Bleaching, Dyeing Or Finishing Treatment Has Been Given
To Them. Some Of These Fabrics, However, May Contain Dyed Or
Finished Yams., Note: In Some Countries, Particularly In The North
American Continent, The Term Greige Is Used. For Woven Goods, The
Term Loomstate Is Frequently Used As An Alternative. In The Linen
And Lace Trades, The Term Brown Goods Is Used.
|
| Grey Scale |
A Series Of
Pairs Of Neutrally Coloured Chips, Showing Increasing Contrast
Within Pairs, Used Visually To Assess Contrasts Between Other Pairs
Of Patterns: For Example The Iso (international Organization For
Standardization) Grey Scales Comprise Two Series Of Chips Against
Which The Magnitude Of The Change In Colour Of A Specimen Submitted
To A Fastness Test And Of Staining Of Adjacent Uncoloured Material
Can Be Visually Assessed And Rated On A 1-5 Scale.
|
| Grinding
(rag) |
A Local Term
For Pulling.
|
| Grist |
See Count
|
| Gros Point |
Also Known As
Point De Venise And Venetian Lace; Very Expensive Heavy Lace From
Venice, The Most Fashionable Material For Cravats Among Aristocrats
And Royalty In The 17th Century. The Lace Was Usually Held Together
With A Ribbon Or Cravat String, Or Sewn Into A Pre-formed Bow And
Fall Because It Was Too Heavy To Be Tied Accurately.
|
| Grosgrain |
A Firm, Tightly
Woven Fabric With A Heavy, Pronounced, Crosswise Rib. Used For
Neckties, Millinery, Trim . The Term Often Describes Ribbon But May
Be A Full Width Fabric As Well.
|
| Grospoint |
A Durable,
Uncut Loop Pile Fabric Used Mainly For Upholstery.
|
| Guard Hairs |
Fibres Which
Project Beyond The Under-coat Of Some Mammals. They Are Usually
Coarser Than Under-coat Fibres.
|
| Guipure
Lace |
A Needlepoint
Lace Made With A Heavy Buttonhole Stitch And With The Pattern On A
Coarse Mesh Or Held Together With Connecting Threads.
|
| Gum Waste |
Waste
Comprising All Broken Silk Threads That Have Been Discarded During
Reeling, Or At The Inspection Of The Skeins, And That Have Not
Undergone Any Further Processing.
|
| Gum-sericin |
A Gelatinous
Protein, Usually Comprising 20% To 30% By Mass Of Raw Silk,
Cementing The Two Fibroin Filaments (brins) In A Silk Fibre (bave).
|
| Gunny |
A Strong,
Coarse, Plain Weave Fabric Usually Of Jute . Similar To Burlap But
Heavier And Coarser. Used For Baling And Sacks.
|