| R |
|
| Rabat |
In The 17th
Century The Rabat Was A Collar Of Linen And Lace Worn Over The
Doublet. Ecclesiastics Wore A Narrower Rabat And This Accessory For
Ecclesiastical Town Dress Remained In Use For A Long Time
Afterwards.
|
| Rabbit Hair |
Fur From The
Common Or Wild Rabbit.
|
| Rack Stitch |
A Knitting
Stitch That Produces A Herringbone Effect With A Rib Back.
|
| Raffia |
A Fibre
Obtained From The Leaves Of The Raffia Palm Raphia Raffia.
|
| Rags (new) |
The Waste
Fabric, Whether Woven Or Knitted, That Is Left After A Garment Has
Been Cut Out. The Term Also Covers Piece Ends And Discarded Pattern
Bunches.
|
| Rags (old) |
Worn Garments
That Have Been Discarded.
|
| Raising |
The Production
Of A Layer Of Protruding Fibres On The Surface Of Fabrics By
Brushing, Teazing, Or Rubbing.
|
| Ramie |
A Bast Fibre
Obtained From The Stems Of Boehmeria Nivea Gaud, Especially The
Variety Tenacissima Belonging To The Urticaceae Or Nettle Family. It
Usually Reaches European Markets In The Form Of Ribbons.
|
| Raschel |
Refers To Knit
Fabric Made A A Raschel Machine, A Warp Knitting Machine Capable Of
A Wide Variety Of Intricate Designs, Various Surface Textures, And
Open Work Effects.
|
| Raschel
Lace |
A Lace Fabric
Knit On A Raschel Machine. Usually Moderately Priced.
|
| Rate Of
Dyeing. |
The Rate At
Which A Dye Is Absorbed By A Substrate Under Specified Conditions.
Note: It May Be Expressed Quantitatively In Several Ways, Such As
The Weight Of Dye Absorbed In Unit Time, Or The Time Taken For The
Substrate To Absorb A Given Fraction Of The Amount Of Dye Which It
Will Absorb At Equilibrium.
|
| Ratine |
A Plain Weave ,
Loosely Constructed Fabric With A Rough, Nubby Texture Resulting
From The Use Of Ratine Yarn, A Knotted, Curly, Plied Yarn. Used For
Drapery, Dresses And Women's Sportswear.
|
| Raw Silk |
Continuous
Filaments Or Strands Containing No Twist, Drawn Off Or Reeled From
Silk Cocoons.
|
| Rayon
(fibre) (USA) |
A Term Used To
Describe Manufactured Fibres Composed Of Regenerated Cellulose, As
Well As Manufactured Fibres Composed Of Regenerated Cellulose In
Which Substituents Have Replaced Not More Than 15% Of The Hydrogens
Of The Hydroxyl Groups. The Iso Generic Names Are Viscose, Modal And
Cupro.
|
Reaction
Spinning (man-made-fibre Production)
|
A Process In
Which Polymerization Is Achieved During The Extrusion Of Reactants
Through A Spinneret System. |
| Reactive
Dye |
A Dye That,
Under Suitable Conditions, Is Capable Of Reacting Chemically With A
Substrate
|
| Reactive
Dyed |
Water Soluble
Dyes That Bond Well To Cellulosic And Nylon Fibers. Provide Good
Brightness And Colorfastness.
|
| Re-breaking |
The Shortening
Of Fibres In A Sliver Or Top By A Process Similar In Principle To
Stretch Breaking. Re-breaking May Be Intended To Shorten A Limited
Number Of Over Length Fibres Or To Reduce The Average Length.
|
| Recommended
Allowance |
The Percentage
That, In The Calculation Of Commercial Weight Of Textile Material
And Of Yarn Linear Density Is Added To The Oven-dry Weight. The
Determination Of This Weight May Or May Not Be Preceded By Washing
To Remove Natural Or Added Oils And Dressings. The Recommended
Allowance Is Arbitrarily Chosen According To Commercial Practice And
Includes The Moisture Regain. It May Also Include The Normal Finish
That Is Added To Impart Satisfactory Textile Qualities To The
Material.
|
| Redox
Potential |
The Potential
Developed When A Bright Platinum Electrode Is Immersed In A Solution
Containing An Ionic Species In Two Interconvertible Oxidation
(valency) States. The Potential Is Dependent Upon The Ratio Of The
Concentrations Of The Two Oxidation States, E.g., Iron Ii And Iron
Iii Ions; 4-dihydroxybenzene (hydroquinone) And 1,4-benzoquinone
(p-benzoquinone); Vat Dye And Leuco Vat Dye. Note: The Standard
Redox Potential, E, Is That Developed When The Concentrations Of The
Two Oxidation States Are Equal To Each Other, And In Vat Dye Systems
Indicates The Difficulty With Which The Vat Dye (the Oxidized State)
Can Be Reduced.
|
| Regain |
The Weight Of
Moisture Present In A Textile Material Expressed As A Percentage Of
The Oven-dry Weight
|
| Regenerated
Cellulose Fibre |
A Term Used To
Describe Manufactured Fibres Composed Of Regenerated Cellulose, As
Well As Manufactured Fibres Composed Of Regenerated Cellulose In
Which Substituents Have Replaced Not More Than 15% Of The Hydrogens
Of The Hydroxyl Groups. The Iso Generic Names Are Viscose, Modal And
Cupro.
|
| Regenerated
Fibre |
A Man-made
Fibre Produced From A Naturally Occurring Fibre-forming Polymer By A
Process That Includes Regeneration Of The Original Polymer
Structure.
|
Regenerated
Protein Fibre
|
A Term Used To
Describe Fibres Obtained From Natural Protein Substances By Chemical
Regeneration. |
| Relative
Humidity |
The Ratio Of
The Actual Pressure Of The Water Vapour In The Atmosphere To The
Saturation Water Vapour At The Same Temperature. The Ratio Is
Usually Expressed As A Percentage E.g. 65 % Rh.
|
| Relaxation |
The Releasing
Of Stresses In Textile Materials.
|
| Rep |
A Plain Weave
Fabric With Ridges In The Filling. Used For Drapery, Upholstery,
Neckties, Robes.
|
| Repeating
Unit |
A Chemical
Group That Recurs In The Backbone Of A Polymer.
|
Residual
Shrinkage
|
The Latent
Shrinkage Of A Fibre, Filament, Yam, Or Fabric. |
| Resin
Treated |
A Fabric That
Has Been Treated With A Synthetic Film-forming Polymer (resin) .
This May Be Done To Make The Fabric Firmer, Heavier, More Stable, To
Add Wrinkle Resistance, To Reduce Shrinkage Or To Create Surface
Effect Such As Embossing Or Glazing.
|
| Resist
Printed |
A Chemical Is
Printed On Certain Areas Of The Fabric To Make Those Areas Resistant
To Dye. Allows For The Printing Of Small Or Fine Motifs In The
Design..
|
| Retexturing |
A Process For
Treating Dry-cleaned Garments, Etc., To Improve Their Properties,
Particularly Water Repellence And Handle.
|
| Retractive
Force (textured Yarn) |
The Tension In
A Textured Yarn Due To The Formation Of Crimp In The Filaments Under
Specified Conditions Of Crimp Development.
|
| Retting
(flax) |
The Subjection
Of Crop Or Deseeded Straw To Chemical Or Biological Treatment To
Make Fibre Bundles More Easily Separable From The Woody Part Of The
Stem. Flax Is Described As Water-retted, Dew-retted Or
Chemically-retted, Etc., According To The Process Employed.
|
| Reused Wool |
Wool Rags And
Manufactured Waste, Torn Up And Reprocessed Into Fibres Again, And
Used For Such Fabrics As Are Composed Of Shoddy And Mungo Yarns.
|
| Rhinegraves |
See Petticoat
Breeches. They Are Said To Derive From Holland Or Germany.
|
| Rhinestones |
Faceted, Highly
Refractive, Imitation Gemstones That Are Attached To The Fabric For
Decorative Purposes.
|
| Rib |
1. Any Fabric
With A Cord Or Ridge Effect . 2. A Knit Fabric Made With Plain
Stitches Alternating With Purl Stitches. Rib Knits Have Natural
Stretch Properties.
|
| Ring
Spinning |
A Spinning
System In Which Twist Is Inserted In A Yarn By Using A Revolving
Traveller. The Yarn Is Wound On Since The Rotational Speed Of The
Package Is Greater Than That Of The Traveller.
|
| Ring Spun |
A Yarn Spinning
Method In Which Roving ( A Thin Strand Of Fiber With Very Little
Twist) Is Fed To A "traveler" With Rotates Around The Edge
Of A Ring. Inside The Ring Is A Faster Rotating Bobbin . The Process
Simultaneously Twists The Roving Into Yarn And Winds It Around The
Bobbin. Ring Spun Yarns Are Generally Stronger Than Open End Yarns.
|
| Ripening |
(1) A Process
In The Production Of Cellulose Ethanoate (acetate) Consisting In The
Splitting Off Of Some Of The Ethanoic Acid (acetic Acid) And Most Of
The Combined Catalyst Present In The Primary Cellulose Ethanoate
(acetate). (2) A Process In The Manufacture Of Viscose In Which,
Prior To Spinning, The Number Of Xanthate Groups Is Reduced And Some
Redistribution Takes Place. The Process Is Time And Temperature
Dependent.
|
| Ripping |
The Operation
Of Removing Cotton Or Man-made Fibre Linings From Garments Prior To
The Sorting And Classification Of Rags.
|
| Ripstop |
A Woven Fabric
With Corded Yarns Spaced At Regular Intervals In Both The Warp And
Filling, Forming Squares On The Surface Of The Fabric. Originally
Intended So A Tear In The Fabric Would Not Spread. Used Mainly For
Outerwear And Active Wear.
|
| Robe |
Originally This
Described All The Furniture And Effects Belonging To A Person, Then
The Meaning Was Gradually Reduced Until It Denotes A Person's
Collection Of Clothing. |
Robe À
L'anglaise
|
Mid- To Second
Half Of 18th Century Dress That Was Made With A Fitted Back Called "en
Fourreau". |
| Robe De
Chambre / Robe Volante |
In The 17th
Century The Word Had Nothing Of The Modern Sense Of Déshabillé,
It Was Simply A Gown Differing From The Court Gown, And Was Admitted
To The Chambres Of The Royal Apartments Outside Receptions And
Ceremonies.
|
| Roller
Printed |
A Method Of
Printing By Passing The Fabric Over Metal Rollers On Which The
Design Has Been Engraved. One Roller Is Used For Each Color. Used
For Printing Long Runs With Good Register And A Clear, Sharp Design.
|
| Rolling
(flax) |
The More
General Term Is Breaking And Consists Of Deformation Of The Plant
Structure By Flattening The Stem, Loosening The Bond Between The
Fibre Bundles And The Wood, And Breaking The Woody Part Into Short
Pieces, To Facilitate Their Removal From The Fibre By Scutching.
|
| Rose Point
Lace |
A Needlepoint
Lace With Floral Patterns Connected By Bars. Similar To Venitian
Lace But With Smaller Patterns.
|
| Rotary
Screen Printed |
In Screen
Printing A Separate Screen Is Created For Each Color . The Open Mesh
Part Of The Screen Corresponds To The Area To Be Printed In That
Color. The Areas Where Color Is Not To Pass Through Are Blocked. Dye
Paste Is Forced Through The Open Mesh Area With A Squeegee. In
Rotary Screen Printing The Squeegees Are Contained Within
Cylindrical Screens Aligned One After The Other, And The Fabric
Moves Continuously. Rotary Printing Is A Much Faster Process Than
Flat Screen Printing But The Pattern Repeat Is Limited By The
Circumference Of The Cylinders.
|
| Rotor
Spinning |
A Method Of
Open-end Spinning Which Uses A Rotor (a High Speed Centrifuge) To
Collect A Individual Fibres Into A Yarn, The Fibres On Entering A
Rapidly Rotating Rotor Are Distributed Around Its Circumference And
Temporarily Held There By Centrifugal Force. The Yarn Is Withdrawn
From The Rotor Wall And, Because Of The Rotation, Twist Is
Generated.
|
| Roughing
(scutched Flax) |
A Preliminary
Hand Hackling Operation Involving The Removal Of Tangled And Short
Fibres By Means Of A Roughing Tool.
|
| Roughing-out
(flax) |
The Rough
Separation Of The Seed From The Chaff, Short Straw, Weeds, And Other
Extraneous Material Produced During De-seeding.
|
| Roving |
A Name Given,
Individually Or Collectively, To The Relatively Fine Fibrous Strands
Used In The Later Or Final Processes Of Preparation For Spinning.
|
| Rubber-like |
Having A Hand
Suggesting Rubber.
|
| Ruff |
Stiffened Frill
Of Lace Or Pleated Linen, Worn In The 16th And Early 17th Centuries.
A Forerunner Of Falling Band And Cravats.
|
| Rug,
Scutching (flax) |
The Partly
Scutched Short Straws That Fall Below The Two Compartments Of A
Scutching Machine After (a) The Shives Have Been Shaken Out Of It,
Or (b) The Waste Made During The Production Of Scutched Flax On A
Wheel.
|
