| T |
|
| Tackspun Fabric |
A Material Made From A Polymer Film
With A Backing Substrate. The Film Is Melted By A Roller To Which It
Adheres, Drawing Up A Fibrous Pile.
|
| Tactel Brand |
A Du Pont Brand Of Filament Nylon
Fiber.
|
| Taffeta |
A Plain Weave, Tightly Woven Smooth
Crisp Fabric With A Characteristic Rustle. Made From Silk Or Man-made
Filament Yarns.
|
| Tag Wool |
The First Clip From A Sheep Not
Shorn As A Lamb.
|
| Tahband |
A Kind Of Girdle Or Belt.
|
| Takauchiya |
A Kind Pyjama (q.v.). Abu'i-fazl
Describes It In The Ain-i-akbati As "a Coat Without Lining, Of The
Indian Form. Formerly It Had Slits In The Skirt, And Was Tied On The
Left Side; His Majesty Has Ordered It To Be Made With A Round Skirt And
To Be Tied On The Right Side."
|
| Tanis |
Tie-cords Or Strings Used To Fasten
Or Tighten A Garment When Worn.
|
| Tape (textile) |
(1) A Woven Narrow Fabric, Generally
Plain-weave, Used In Non-loadbearing Applications And The Reinforcing Of
Fabrics To Resist Wear And Deformation. (2) A Long Narrow Flat Structure
With Textile-like Properties Made From Thermoplastic Polymer, Paper, Or
Other Appropriate Material.
|
| Tape Yarn |
A Yarn Which Comprises A Tape With A
Large Width-to-thickness Ratio, And Which Has An Apparent Width Not
Exceeding An Agreed Limit (e.g., 5mm Or 8mm). Note: Such Yarns Are
Usually Of Paper Or Are Formed By Slitting A Wide Film Of (usually)
Polyethylene Or Polypropylene Polymer Into Individual Tapes, With
Hot-stretching Either Before Or After Slitting To Induce High
Longitudinal Strength. The Draw Ratio In Hot-stretching Is Kept Low
Enough To Avoid Excessive Longitudinal Fibrillation. The Tape Yarn So
Produced Is Suitable For Weaving.
|
| Tape, Oriented |
A Tape Made By Extruding A
Thermoplastic Polymer, Usually A Polyolefin, In The Form Of A Sheet Or
Film, Slitting The Sheet Into Tapes And Hot-stretching To Induce
Molecular Orientation And Hence High Longitudinal Strength.
|
| Taper |
To Decrease Width Gradually And
Bring It To An End Point.
|
| Taper Line Gratings |
Transparent Plates Containing Lines
More Widely Spaced At One End Than The Other. By Selecting The
Appropriate Taper Line Grating And Placing It Parallel To A Set Of
Threads In A Woven Fabric, It Is Possible To Ascertain The Number Of
Threads Per Unit Length (cm Or Inch) As A Result Of A Star Form Created.
These Gratings Can Also Be Used To Determine The Number Of Courses Per
Unit Length In Weft-knitted Fabrics, Or The Number Of Dents Per Unit
Length In A Reed.
|
| Tapestry |
A Closely Woven Figured Fabric Of
Compound Structure In Which A Pattern Is Developed By The Use Of
Coloured Yarns In The Warp Or In The Weft Or Both. A Fine Binder Warp
And Weft May Be Incorporated. It Normally Used For Upholstery. Note:
Originally The Term Was Applied To Furnishing Fabrics In Which The
Design Was Produced By Means Of Coloured Threads Inserted By Hand As
Required. Modern Tapestry Fabrics Are Woven On Jacquard Looms, Coloured
Yarns Being Used To Produce The Desired Pattern. There Are Various
Fabric Structures In Which Two Or More Warps And Wefts Of Different
Materials May Be Used. The Face Of The Fabric Is Usually Of Uniform
Texture, The Design Being Developed In Various Colours, But In Some
Tapestry Fabrics Figures Of The Brocade Type Formed By Floating Some Of
The Threads Are Also To Be Found.
|
| |
|
| Tartan |
Refers To The Kinds Of Plaid
Patterns Traditionally Worn By Scottish Highlanders . Each Design Was
Associated With A Specific Family Or "clan". The Term Is
Generally Used To Today In Reference To Any Plaid Design Similar To
These Scottish Designs.
|
| Taslan |
A Du Pont Trademark For A Method Of
Bulking And Texturizing Yarn Using Compressed Air.
|
| Tasteless |
The Basques Of Early 17th Century
Doublets.
|
| Tattersall |
A Simple Overcheck Design, Usually A
Thin Check Of One Or 2 Colors On A Contrasting Color Ground.
|
| Tear |
The Ratio Of Top To Noil Produced In
Combing.
|
| Teazle; Teazel; Teasel |
The Dried Seed-head Of The Plant
Dipsacus Fullonum (fullers Thistle) Used To Raise A Pile Or Nap On
Certain Fabrics. The Machine Used For This Purpose Is Known As A Teazle
Gig.
|
| Teentah Topi |
A Topi (q.v.) Consisting Of Three
Different Pieces, Stitched Together.
|
| Teflon |
A Water Repellent, Stain Resistant
Finish Applied To Fabric . Trademark Of Du Pont Co.
|
| Temporary Set |
The Process Of Conferring Temporary
Stability Of Form Upon Fibres, Yarns, Or Fabrics, Usually By Means Of
Successive Heating And Cooling In Moist Or Dry Conditions.
|
| Tenacity |
See Breaking Stress
|
| Tencel Brand |
Acordis Co.'s Brand Of Lyocell
Cellulosic Fiber.
|
| Tensile Test |
A Test In Which The Resistance Of A
Material To Stretching In One Direction Is Measured
|
| Terry |
A Fabric With Uncut Loops On One Or
Both Sides . May Be Woven Or Knit. Used For Toweling, Robes. Knit
Versions Such As French Terry Have Loops On One Side And Are Sometimes
Brushed To Produce A Fleece.
|
| |
|
| Tex |
The Basic Unit Of The Tex System
|
Tex Is A Recognized Si Unit.
|
See Also Count, Hank, Lea (cotton),
Flax Yarn Bundle |
| Tex System |
A System Of Expressing Linear
Density (mass Per Unit Length) Of Fibres, Filaments, Slivers, And Yarns,
Or Other Linear Textile Material. The Basic Unit Is The Tex, Which Is
The Mass In Grams Of One Kilometre Of The Product. Multiples And
Sub-multiples Recommended For Use In Preference To Other Possible
Combinations Are: kilogram Per Kilometre, Designated Kilotex (ktex);
Decigram Per Kilometre, Designated Decitex (dtex);and Milligram Per
Kilometre, Designated Millitex (mtex).
|
| Textile |
Originally A Woven Fabric But The
Term Is Now Applied To Fibres, Filaments, Or Yarns, Natural Man-made,
And Products Obtained From Them. Note: For Example, Threads, Cords,
Ropes, Braids, Lace, Embroidery, Nets, And Fabrics Made By Weaving,
Knitting, Felting, Bonding, And Tufting Are Textiles. Used As An
Adjective, Descriptive Of Fibrous Or Filamentous Manufactures And Of The
Raw Materials, Processes, Machines, Buildings, And Personnel Used In The
Organizations Connected With, And The Technology Of, Their Manufacture.
|
| Textile Film |
A Man-made Textile Material In Film
Form Within Which Molecular Orientation Is Predominantly In The
Longitudinal Direction. Note: Polymer Films For Non-textile Use Are
Commonly Unoriented Or Bi-axially Oriented, But Uni-axial Orientation Is
Present In Some Cases.
|
Textile Glass (fibre) (generic
name)
|
The Name Used To Describe Glass
Fibres That Are Suitable For Textile Applications. |
| Textured Yarn |
A Continuous-filament Yam That Has
Been Processed To Introduce Durable Crimps, Coils, Loops Or Other Fine
Distortions Along The Lengths Of The Filaments. Note 1: The Main
Texturing Procedures Which Are Usually Applied To Continuous-filament
Yarns Made From Or Containing Thermoplastic Fibres, Are: (a) The Yarn Is
Highly Twisted, Heat-set And Untwisted Either As A Process Of Three
Separate Stages (now Obsolescent) Or As A Continuous Process
(false-twist Texturing). In An Infrequently Used Alternative Method, Two
Yarns Are Continuously Folded Together, Heat-set, Then Separated By
Unfolding; (b) The Yam Is Injected Into A Heated Stuffer Box Either By
Feed Rollers Or Through A Plasticizing Jet Of Hot Fluid (invariably Air
Or Steam). The Jet Process Is Sometimes Known As Jet Texturing, Hot-air
Jet Texturing, Or Steam-jet Texturing; (c) The Yam Is Plasticized By
Passage Through A Jet Of Hot Fluid And Is Impacted On To A Cooling
Surface (impact Texturing); (d) The Heated Yam Is Passed Over A
Knife-edge (edge Crimping), (now Obsolete); (e) The Heated Yarn Is
Passed Between A Pair Of Gear Wheels Or Through Some Similar Device
(gear Crimping); (f) The Yam Is Knitted Into A Fabric That Is Heat-set
And Then Unravelled (knit-deknit Texturing); (g) The Yam Is Over-fed
Through A Turbulent Air Stream (air-texturing, Air-jet Texturing), So
That Entangled Loops Are Formed In The Filaments; (h) The Yarn Is
Composed Of Bicomponent Fibres And Is Subjected To A Hot And/or Wet
Process Whereby Differential Shrinkage Occurs. Note 2: Procedures (a)
And (d) In Note I Above Gives Yams Of A Generally High-stretch
Character. This Is Frequently Reduced By Re-heating The Yam In A State
Where It Is Only Partly Relaxed From The Fully Extended Condition, Thus
Producing A Stabilized Yarn With The Bulkiness Little Reduced But With A
Much Reduced Retractive Power. Note 3: The Procedure (g) May Also Be
Applied To Fibres Which Are Not Thermoplastic.
|
| Thermal Fabric |
A Knit Or Woven Fabric Constructed
So As To Trap Warm Air Between The Yarns. Often In A Waffle Or Honeycomb
Texture. Used For Blankets. Underwear.
|
Thermally Bonded Nonwoven Fabric
|
Textile Fabric Composed Of A Web Or
Batt Of Fibres Containing Heat-sensitive Material, Bonded By The
Application Of Heat, With Or Without Pressure. The Heat-sensitive
Materials May Be In The Form Of Fibres, Bicomponent Fibres Or Powders. |
| Thermoplastic |
Deformable By Applied Heat And
Pressure Without Any Accompanying Chemical Change. The Deformation Is
Reversible.
|
| Thick & Thin |
A Fabric With A Mottled Appearance,
Made From A Filament Yarn With Varying Thickness.
|
| Thickener |
A Substance Used To Increase The
Viscosity Of A Print Paste Or Other Fluid, In Order To Control Its Flow
Properties. Natural Polymers (starch, Alginates, Etc.,), Chemical
Modifications Thereof, Synthetic Polymers, Emulsions, Foams And Clays
Can Be Used.
|
| Thread |
(1) The Result Of Twisting Together
In One Or More Operations Two Or More Single, Folded, Or Cabled Yarns
(2) A Product As Defined In (1) Intended Particularly For Sewing
Purposes. (known Also As Sewing Thread.) (3) A Component Of Silk Yarn.
It Is The Product Of Winding Together Without Twist A Number Of Baves. A
Three-thread Silk Yarn Is The Result Of Folding Three Such Products
Together (4) A Textile Yam In General.
|
| Thread Count |
Is The Number Of Warp And Weft Yarns
In One Square-inch Of A Fabric (warp Yarn X Weft Yarn Per Sq. Inch)
|
| Throw |
A Term, Of Germanic And Anglo-saxon
Origin, Used Especially In The Silk And Man-made Fibre Industries To
Describe The Twisting Or Folding Of Continuous-filament Yams. Note. The
Term Throwster Was Traditionally Used To Describe An Individual Or
Company Specifically Involved With These Twisting Processes, But, In
More Recent Times, The Title Has Also Been Inherited By Those Who
Manufacture Textured Yarns By The False-twist Method.
|
| Tick Weave |
Fabric With A Small Allover Pattern
Or Texture, Often Using 2 Contrasting Colors.
|
| Ticking |
A General Term For A Strong, Tightly
Woven Fabric Most Often Used For Mattress And Box Spring Covers But Also
For Workwear And Other Apparel. Often Found In A Pattern Of Narrow
Stripes On Either Side Of A Wider Stripe. They Are Commonly Dark Warp
Stripes On A White Ground.
|
| Tie Dyed |
A Hand Method Of Dyeing That
Involves Gathering Small Portions Of The Fabric And Tying Them Tightly
Before Dyeing. The Tied Areas Resist Penetration Of The Dye, Resulting
In Irregular Patterns. Also Refers To Similar Designs Created By Machine
Methods.
|
| Tiki |
A Round Piece; Generally Tacked On
To A Garment.
|
| Tinsel Yarn |
A Textile Yarn Or Thread, Combined,
Coated, Or Covered With A Shiny Substance, Often Metallic (e.g.,
Aluminium, Occasionally Gold Or Silver), To Produce A Glittering Or
Sparkling Effect.
|
| Tippet |
From The 16th Century Onwards It
Meant A Short Shoulder Cape.
|
| Tippy Wool. |
Wool In Which The Tip Portions Of
The Fibres Have Been So Damaged By Weathering During Growth As To Have
Markedly Different Dyeing Properties.
|
| Tissue Faille |
A Lightweight, Plain Weave, Filament
Yarn Fabric Characterized By A Narrow Crosswise Rib. Used For Blouses
And Dresses.
|
| Tone On Tone |
1. A Fabric With A Pattern
Consisting Of 2 Or More Shades Of The Same Color. 2. Piece Dyed Dobbies
In Which The Dobby Effect Takes On A Different Tone By Virtue Of The
Weave, Light Reflection Or Types Of Yarn Used.
|
| Top |
(1) Sliver That Forms The Starting
Material For The Worsted And Certain Other Drawing Systems, Usually
Obtained By The Process Of Combing, And Characterized By The Following
Properties: (a) The Absence Of Fibres So Short As To Be Uncontrolled In
The Preferred System Of Drawing; (b) A Substantially Parallel Formation
Of The Fibres; (c) A Substantially Homogeneous Distribution Throughout
The Sliver Of Fibres From Each Length-group Present. Note 1: Tops Are
Usually Produced By Carding And Combing, Or By Preparing And Combing On
Worsted Machinery, But Recent Years Have Seen The Introduction Of
Top-making By The Cutting Or Controlled Breaking Of Continuous-filament
Tows Of Man-made Fibres, And The Assembly Of The Resultant Staple Fibres
Into Sliver In A Single Machine. Note 2: The Advent Of Man-made Fibres
Has Meant The Introduction Of Staple-fibre Top Into The Flax, Jute, Spun
Silk, And Other Drawing Systems. (2) The Form Or Package In Which Sliver
Is Delivered, E.g., Ball Top Or Bump Top.
|
| Top Dyed |
A Fiber Dyeing Method In Which Dye
In Applied To Combed Fibers In An Untwisted Or Loosely Twisted Rope Form
(called Top Or Sliver ) . Sometimes Dye Is Applied Or Printed On The
Fiber At Regular Intervals To Give A Melange Effect . Top Dyeing Results
In Good Colorfastness.
|
| Topham Box. |
A Device For Twisting And Winding A
Wet-spun Continuous-filament Yarn So As To Produce A Cake |
| Torchon Lace |
An Inexpensive, Sturdy, Machine Made
Lace Using Thick Threads In Simple Designs On A Mesh Ground . Often With
Scalloped Edges. Also Called Beggar's Lace.
|
Tow (flax Or Hemp)
|
Any Substantially Clean Fibre Of
Less Than Scutched Length. |
Tow (man-made fibres)
|
An Assemblage Of A Large Number Of
Substantially Parallel Filaments With Little Or No Twist. |
| Tow, Machine |
Tow Produced By A Hackling Machine.
|
| Tow, Straw |
Flax Straw In Tossed And Broken
Condition, Resulting From Threshing A Flax Crop Too Poor For Normal
Processing
|
| Tower |
High Female Headdress Fashionable In
The Late 17th And Early 18th Century.
|
| Tow-to-top |
A Process In Which Heavy
Continuous-filament Yam, Having No Twist And A Substantially Parallel
Alignment Of The Filaments, Is Cut Or Broken Into Staple And Drafted
Into A Sliver As A Continuous Process. It Is Characteristic Of The
Process That The Tow Does Not Lose Its Form, Although The Filaments Are
Broken Down Into Short Lengths, But Is Only Attenuated In The Drafting
Process.
|
| Tram |
A Silk Weft Yarn Comprising Two Or
More Threads Run Together And Then Twisted With 2 Or 4 Turns/cm.
|
| Transfer Printing |
Any Process By Which A Design Is
Transferred From Paper To Another Substrate. Several Techniques Have
Been Used, Viz Melt-transfer, Film-release, And Wet-transfer, But Vapour
Transfer (sublimation Transfer) Is The Most Important. Selected Disperse
Dyes Transfer In Vapour Form To Thermoplastic Fibres When The Printed
Paper And Fabric Are Brought Into Close Contact In A Transfer Press At
170°-220°c.
|
| Trapunto |
A Form Of Quilting In Which A Design
Is Stitched Through 2 Layers Of Fabric. The Lower Layer Is Than Slit And
Batting Or Fiberfill Is Inserted To Raise The Design To A High Relief.
|
| Trash (cotton) |
A Loose Term Embracing, In Its
Widest Sense, The Non-fibrous Foreign Matter Present In Bales Of Raw
Cotton Other Than Abnormal Items, Such As Stone, Timber, Pieces Of Old
Iron, Etc. Note 1: Normal Whole Seeds, Either Ginned Or Un-ginned, Are
Frequently Excluded From This Category But Broken Portions Of Them And
Also Whole Or Broken Undeveloped Seeds Are Usually Regarded As Trash.
Note2, The Main Component Of Trash Is Chaff And Dirt In The Form Of Soil
Or Sand.
|
| Trend |
Fashion Is Not Static, They Are
Constantly Moving, Their Movement Has A Definite Direction. The
Direction In Which Fashion Moves Is Called Fashion Trend.
|
Triacetate (fibre) (generic
Name)
|
A Term Used To Describe Fibres Of
Cellulose Ethanoate (cellulose Acetate) Wherein At Least 92% Of The
Hydroxyl Groups Of The Original Cellulose Are Ethanoylated (acetylated). |
| Tricorne |
From French Late 18th Century Term
For Hat With Turned Up Brim And Having Three Corners.
|
| Tricot |
A Common Warp Knit Fabric With Thin
Wales On The Face And Crosswise Ribs On The Back . Generally Made Of
Synthetic Yarns Such As Polyester, Nylon, Acetate Or Rayon.
|
| Tricotine |
A Woven Fabric With A Distinct Steep
Double Twill Line. Used For Trousers Dresses, Women's Sportswear.
|
| Trim |
To Cut Off The Ragged Edges Below
The Seam Line To Prevent The Garment From Being Bulky And To Give The
Seam A Neat Finish.
|
| Tristimulus Values |
The Amounts Of Three Defined
Primaries (usually Blue, Red And Green) Required To Be Mixed Additively
To Match The Colour Of The Object, Under Defined Conditions.
|
| Trivinyl (fibre) (generic Name) |
A Term Used To Describe Fibres Made
From A Synthetic Terpolymer Of Cyanoethene (acrylonitrile), A
Chlorinated Vinyl Monomer And A Third Vinyl Monomer, None Of Which
Represents As Much As 50% Of The Total Mass.
|
| Tropical |
A General Term For Crisp Lightweight
Suiting Fabrics. They Often Use Fine Or High Twist Yarns For A Porous
Construction . May Be A Variety Of Fibers And Weaves . Primarily Used
For Warm Weather Suits.
|
| Trousses |
In The 17th Century The Upper Hose
Which Did Not Hang Down, But Fitted The Thighs Tightly. They Are A
Survival Of The 16th Century Grègues, Preserved In The Ceremonial
Costume Of Knights Of The King's Order And In Pages' Costumes.
|
| True Hemp |
See Hemp, True
|
| Tubular |
A Knit Fabric Made On A Circular
Knitting Machine And Shipped Without Being Slit To Open Width Form.
|
| Tuck Stitch |
A Knit Stitch That Results In Open
Spaces At Regular Intervals On The Fabric By Having Some Needles Hold
More Than One Loop At A Time.
|
| Tukma |
Small, Button-like Boss Used In
Conjunction With A Ghundi (q.v.) Or Loop, For Fastening.
|
| Tulle |
A Soft, Fine, Transparent Net
Originally Made Of Silk But Now Made Of Synthetics. Usually Has A
Hexagonal Mesh. Used In Evening Wear And Bridal Veils.
|
| Tussah |
Silk Fabric Made From The Strong,
Coarse, Uneven, Light Brown Color Silk Produced By Wild, Uncultivated
Silkworms.
|
| Tussah Silk |
A Coarse Silk Produced By A Wild
Silkworm. There Are Three Main Types: Antheraea Mylitta (largely
Indian), Antheraea Pernyi (largely Chinese), And Antheraea Yama-mai
(largely Japanese). It Is Brown In Colour And Is Usually Spun, Since
Most Cocoons Cannot Be Reeled. Note: The Spelling 'tussah', Although
Considered Erroneous By Etymologists, Is In Common Usage In The Textile
Industry For The Name Given To Fibres And Filaments.
|
| Tussore |
A Fabric Woven From The Coarse Wild
Silk Called Tussah. Note: The Spelling 'tussore', Although Considered
Erroneous By Etymologists, Is In Common Usage In The Textile Industry
For The Name Given To Fabrics.
|
| Twaddell |
A Scale Used For The Measurement Of
The Specific Gravity Of Liquids By Hydrometry. The Following Formula
Expresses The Relationship Between Specific Gravity (sg), And Degrees
Twaddell (tw), For Liquids Heavier Than Water:
|
| Tweed |
Originally A Coarse, Heavy-weight,
Rough-surfaced Wool Fabric For Outerwear, Woven In Southern Scotland.
The Term Is Now Applied To Fabrics Made In A Wide Range Of Weights And
Qualities From Woollen-spun Yams In A Variety Of Weave Effects And
Colour-and-weave Effects .
|
| Twill |
A General Term For A Woven Fabric
Made With A Twill Weave, A Basic Weave Characterized By Diagonal Lines
On The Face Of The Fabric.
|
| Twist |
The Condition Of A Yarn Or Similar
Structure When The Component Elements Have A Helical Disposition Such As
Results, For Instance, From Relative Rotation Of The Yarn Ends. For All
Practical Purposes Twist Is Measured In Turns, But For Purely
Theoretical Work Its Measurement In Radians (the Si Unit) Often Leads To
Much Simpler Mathematical Expressions.
|
| Twist Angle |
The Angle Between The Path Of A Yarn
Element And The Yarn Axis.
|
| Twist Direction |
Twist Is Described As 's' Or 'z'
According To Which Of These Letters Has Its Centre Inclined In The Same
Direction As The Surface Elements Of A Given Twisted Yarn.
|
| Twist Factor; Twist Multiplier |
In A Yarn, The Product Of Twist
Level And The Square Root Of The Linear Density. Note: Where Units Of
Specific Length Are In Use, The Corresponding Factor Is The Quotient Of
The Twist Level And The Square Root Of The Count.
|
| Twist Level |
The Amount Of Twist Per Unit Length
Of A Yarn. Note: With The Exception Of False-twisting , The Length Is
Normally Assumed To Be That In The Twisted Form But, When Necessary,
Ambiguity Can Be Avoided By Stating, For Example, Turns Per Twisted
Metre Or Turns Per Untwisted Metre.
|
| Twist Liveliness |
The Tendency Of A Yam To Twist Or
Untwist Spontaneously. Note 1: Examples Of Effects Which May Be Caused
By Twist Liveliness Include Snarling Of Yarns During Processing And
Spirality In Knitted Fabrics.
|
Twist Multiplier; Twist Factor
|
In A Yarn, The Product Of Twist
Level And The Square Root Of The Linear Density. |
| Twistless Spinning |
A System Of Yarn Formation That
Relies On The Use Of A Permanent Or Temporary Adhesive To Bond Fibres
Together. Note: Where A Temporary Adhesive Is Used It Is Removed During
Fabric Finishing, And The Yarn (and Fabric) Strength Is Then Obtained
Through Lateral Pressure Produced By The Interlacings In The Fabric. A
Similar Fabric Construction Can Be Achieved By Using Wrap Spun Yarns
Which Have Been Produced With A Soluble Binder.
|
| Twistless Yarn |
A Yarn Prepared Without Twist In
Order To Obtain Special Properties, E.g., Increased Softness And
Dyeability.
|
| Twitty |
Descriptive Of An Irregular Yarn Or
Stubbing In Which Local Concentrations Of Twist Have Accentuated The
Irregular Appearance.
|
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