| W |
|
| Wadding |
A Loosely
Cohering Sheet Of Fibres Used For Padding, Upholstery, Stuffing,
Packing, Or Similar Purposes.
|
| Waffle |
A Fabric
Characterized By A Honeycomb Texture Or Small Squares Similar To The
Surface Of A Waffle. May Be Woven Or Knit.
|
| Waistcoat |
From The Louis
Xvi Period Onwards Waistcoats Were Worn Under All Men's Outer
Garments, Coat, Riding-coat, Frock Coat, Jacket, Etc. Usually The
Two Front Panels Were Made From Fine Material And The Back, Which
Isn't Seen, From Lining Material.
|
| Wale
(knitting) |
A Column Of
Loops Along The Length Of A Fabric.
|
| Wall
Thickness, Apparent |
The Apparent
Width Of A Fibre Wall As Seen When Fibres Are Examined Under A
Microscope. Note: In The Cotton Fibre Maturity Test, The Apparent
Wall Thickness Assessed Visually At The Widest Part Of The Fibres As
A Fraction Of The Maximum Ribbon Width.
|
| Warm |
A Woolly Or
Fibrous Hand Generally Associated With Fabrics That Keep The Body
Warm.
|
| Warm
Colours |
Colors Like
Red, Orange, Yellow Are Classified As Warm Colors, They Are
Advancing In Nature, Because As Seen By The Eyes These Colors Move
Closer Thereby Reducing The Size Of An Object. Warm Colors Are
Cheerful.
|
| Warp |
Used As A Verb
- To Arrange Threads In Long Lengths Parallel To One Another
Preparatory To Further Processing. Note: In Addition To Beaming The
Following Methods Of Warping Are Practised; Ball Warping, Cross-ball
Warping, And Chain Warping. The Primary Stage Of These Methods Of
Warping Is Withdrawal Of Ends From A Warping Creel And Their
Assembly In Rope Form, A Form That May Conveniently Be Used For Wet
Processing. For Convenience Of Handling, This Rope May Be (a) Wound
Into A Ball (ball Warping), (b) Machine-wound On To A Wooden Roller
Into A Cross-ball Cheese (cross-ball Or Cheese Warping), Or (c)
Shortened Into A Link Chain (chain Warping). A Number Of These Ropes
May Be Assembled Into A Complete Warp On A Beam Or May Be Split And
Dressed And Incorporated In Warps Made By Other Methods.
|
| Warp (UK,
Local, Chain) |
Used As A Noun
- (1) Threads Lengthways In A Fabric As Woven. (2) A Number Of
Threads In Long Lengths And Approximately Parallel, In Various Forms
Intended For Weaving, Knitting, Doubling, Sizing, Dyeing, Or
Lacemaking.
|
| Warp
Dressing |
The Operation
Of Assembling On A Beam Yarns From A Ball Warp, Beam Warp, Or Chain
Warp Immediately Prior To Weaving.
|
| Warp Knit |
A Fabric
Produced By Interlocking Loops In A Lengthwise Direction . Warp
Knits Tend To Be Flatter, Smoother, More Run Resistant, And More
Stable Than Weft Knits . Examples Are Tricot, Raschel And Milanese.
|
| Warp
Knitting |
A Method Of
Making A Fabric By Normal Knitting Means In Which The Loops Made
From Each Warp Thread Are Formed Substantially Along The Length Of
The Fabric. It Is Characterized By The Fact That Each Warp Thread Is
Fed More Or Less In Line With The Direction In Which The Fabric Is
Produced.
|
| Warp Print |
The Warp Yarns
Are Printed With A Design Before Weaving. After Weaving The Design
Then Has A Hazy Shadowy Effect.
|
| Washed |
Refers To
Fabrics That Have Been Laundered Before Shipping. This May Be Done
To Reduce Shrinkage, Soften The Hand, Wash Down The Color Or To Give
The Fabric A Used, Laundered Look.
|
| Washer |
A Machine For
Removing Impurities, Excess Dyes Or Chemicals By Submitting Fabric
Or Yarn, In Rope Or Open-width Form, To Successive Liquid
Treatments,
|
| Washing-off |
Treatment Of
Textile Material In Water Or Detergent Solution To Remove Substances
Employed Previous Processes.
|
| Waste
(cotton, Wool And Other Staple Fibres) |
There Are Two
Classes Of Waste Known As 'hard' And 'soft', And Their Treatment
Differs According To The Class. Hard Waste Is Essentially That From
Spinning Frames, Reeling And Winding Machines And All Other Waste Of
A Thready Nature. Soft Waste Comes From Earlier Processes Where The
Fibres Are Relatively Little Twisted, Felted, Or Compacted.
|
| Water
Repellent |
Fabrics That
Have Been Treated To Resist Wetting And Shed Water By Causing The
Water To Bead On The Surface. It Does Not Close The Pores Of The
Fabric As Waterproof Treatments Do, So The Fabrics Are Comfortable
To Wear. It Will Offer Protection In A Light Shower But Not Heavy
Rain. Water Repellency May Be Added By Treating The Fabric With
Fluorocarbon Chemicals , Wax, Silicone Or Resins . Sometimes Called
Water Resistant.
|
| Watercolor |
Refers To
Designs That Are Characterized By Soft Gradations And Soft Shadings
Of Color Suggestive Of Semi-opaque Watercolor Paintings.
|
| Watering |
An Operation
Used In Grass Bleaching That Consists Of Spraying Fabrics Laid On A
Green With Water.
|
| Waterproof |
The Ability Of
Fabric To Be Fully Resistant To Penetration By Water. Note: The Term
Is An Absolute One And Implies That The Water Penetration Resistance
Of The Fabric Is Equivalent To Its Hydraulic Bursting Strength.
|
| Waterproof |
Refers To
Fabrics That Have Been Coated, Laminated, Or Otherwise Treated To
Prevent The Penetration Of Water.
|
| Water-repellent |
A State
Characterized By The Non-spreading Of A Globule Of Water On A
Textile Material.
|
| Watteau
Pleat |
Box Pleat
Sweeping Down From The Shoulders To The Hem In The Loose Back Of The
Gown.
|
| Wax Coated |
Refers To
Fabric That Has Been Coated With Wax Or Paraffin To Alter The Hand
Or Appearance Or To Make The Fabric Water Repellent.
|
| Waxing,
Warp |
The Application
Of Wax To A Warp Sheet So As To Improve Its Weaving Performance. The
Wax, In Emulsion Or Molten Form, Is Usually Applied By A Trough And
Lick Roller. The Point Of Application May Be Between The Swift And
Warp Beam In Section Warping , Or Between The Creel And Beaming Head
In Beam Warping Or Immediately After Drying In Slasher Sizing.
Normally Waxes Must Be Readily Removable In The Subsequent Finishing
Operation. Note: Alternatively Wax Is Sometimes Applied To A Warp By
Means Of A Wax Rod Placed In The Nip Between The Warp Sheet And The
Weaver's Beam At The Point Where The Yarn Leaves The Latter.
|
| Weathering |
(1) The Action
Of Atmospheric Agencies Or Elements On Substances Exposed To Them.
(2) The Discoloration, Disintegration, Etc., That Results From This
Action.
|
| Weave |
The Pattern Of
Interlacing Of Warp And Weft In A Woven Fabric
|
| Web |
(1) A Rarely
Used Synonym For Fabric. (2) The Sheet Of Fibres Delivered By A Card
(card Web) (3) A Plain Circular-knitted Fabric. (4) A Local And
Little-used Synonym For Warp. (5) (nonwoven) Single Or Multiple
Sheets Of Fibre Used In Nonwoven Fabric Production. Also Termed Batt
|
| Webbing |
A Woven Narrow
Fabric, The Prime Function Of Which Is Load Bearing. It Is Generally
Of A Coarse Weave And Has Multiple Plies. It Is Produced In Widths
Up To And Including 450 Mm And Includes All Elastic Narrow Fabrics.
|
| Weepers |
White Bands
Which Were Worn On The Sleeve Facings Of Coats And Jerkins In The
17th And 18th Centuries As A Sign Of Deep Mourning.
|
| Weft |
(1) Threads
Widthways In A Fabric As Woven. (2) Yarn Intended For Use As In (1).
|
| Weft Bobbin |
See Pirn
|
| Weft
Carrier |
A Yarn Carrier
Providing A Supply Of Weft And Driven Positively Through A Shed In A
Weaving Machine.
|
| Weft Knit |
The Most Common
Type Of Knit Formed By Interlocking Loops In The Widthwise Direction
. Weft Knit Tend To Have More Stretch Than Warp Knits. Examples Are
Interlock, Jerseys, Double Knits, Rib Knits.
|
| Weft
Knitting |
A Method Of
Making A Fabric By Normal Knitting Means In Which The Loops Made By
Each Weft Thread Are Formed Substantially Across The Width Of The
Fabric. It Is Characterized By The Fact That Each Weft Thread Is Fed
More Or Less At Right Angles To The Direction In Which The Fabric Is
Produced.
|
| Weighting |
The Addition Of
Metallic Salts To Silks To Increase The Mass And Impart A Firmer
Handle.
|
| Wet
Cleaning |
The Removal Of
Water-soluble Or Emulsifiable Soil From Garments, Often Carried Out
On A Draining Board Using Tepid Water In The Presence Of Detergents.
It Is Also A Process For Cleaning Garments Etc., Made From Fabrics,
E.g. Vinyi Coated Materials, Liable To Be Damaged By Dry Cleaning
Solvents.
|
| Wet
Fixation |
A Finishing
Process For Cellulosic-fibre Fabrics That Improves The Wet Crease
Recovery And Smooth Drying Properties, But Not The Dry Crease
Recovery.
|
| Wet Laying |
The Process Of
Forming A Fibre Sheet By Papermaking Techniques, For Nonwoven Fabric
Production.
|
| Wet
Spinning (man-made-fibre Production) |
Conversion Of A
Dissolved Polymer Into Filaments By Extrusion Into A Coagulating
Liquid. Note: The Extrusion May Be Directly Into The Coagulating
Liquid Or Through A Small Air-gap. In The Latter Case It May Be
Known As Dry-jet Wet Spinning Or Air-gap Wet Spinning.
v |
| Wet-laid |
Formation Of A
Non-woven Fabric By Suspending Fibers In Water To Disperse Them
Evenly . The Suspension Is Poured Onto A Moving Screen Allowing The
Water To Pass Through And Leaving A Fiber Web, Which Is Then Dried
To Form The Fabric.
|
| Wet-spun |
(1) Descriptive
Of A Yarn Of Flax, Hemp, Or Similar Fibre Spun From Roving That Has
Been Thoroughly Wetted Out In Hot Water Immediately Prior To The
Drafting Operation. (2) Descriptive Of Man-made Filament Produced By
Wet Spinning.
|
| Whipcord |
A Strong, Firm
Fabric With A Prominent, Steep, Indented Twill Line. Used For
Trousers, Drapery, Upholstery.
|
| Width,
Fabric |
Unless
Otherwise Specified, The Distance From Edge To Edge Of A Fabric When
Laid Flat On A Table Without Tension. In The Case Of Commercial
Dispute The Measurement Should Be Made After The Fabric Has Been
Conditioned In A Standard Atmosphere For Testing . When Buying And
Selling Fabric It Is Normal To Specify The Basis On Which The Width
Is To Be Assessed E.g., Overall, Within Limits, Or Usable Width
(which Implies Within Stenter Pin Marks).
|
| Wild Silk |
Fibres Extruded
By Insect Larvae Other Than Bombyx Mori.
|
| Wildness |
A Ruffled
Appearance Of The Surface Fibres In Slivers, Slubbings, Rovings, And
Yams. Note: Wildness May Be Due To The Processing Of These Products
Under Dry Atmospheric Conditions Which Causes Increased Inter-fibre
Friction And Static-electricity Troubles. The Static Charges Cause
Mutual Fibre Repulsion And Prevent Fibres From Taking Up Normal
Orderly Positions In The Respective Products.
|
Willey (UK,
Local, Willow, Teaze)
|
To Open And
Disentangle Fibres Prior To Scouring And/or Carding |
Willey;
Tenterhook Willow; Fearnought; Teazer, Cockspur Willey
|
A Machine
Consisting Of Bladed Or Pinned Rollers For Opening, Cleaning And
Mixing Staple Fibre Material As A Preliminary To Scouring (for
Greasy Wool) Or Carding (for Most Animal And Synthetic Fibres). |
| Winch;
Wince |
A Dyeing
Machine In Which One Or More Endless Lengths Of Fabric Are Drawn
Through The Dyebath By A Rotating Reel Or Drum Above The Surface Of
The Dye Liquor.
|
| Wind Ratio |
The Number Of
Wraps Wound On A Take-up Package While The Traverse Completes A Full
Stroke In One Direction.
|
| Winder |
A Machine Used
For Transferring Yam From One Package To Another.
|
| Windowpane |
A Design That
Looks Like A Windowpane, With Narrow Bands Of One Color Forming An
Over-check That Encloses Rectangles Of Another Ground Color.
|
| Wool |
The Fibrous
Covering Of A Sheep (see Note Under Hair).
|
| Wool
Classing |
See Classing
|
| Wool
Sorting |
A Process By
Which Fleece Or Skin Wool Is Divided Up Into Various Qualities. It
Is Usually Carried Out By The User.
|
| Wool Waste |
There Are Two
Classes Of Waste Known As 'hard' And 'soft', And Their Treatment
Differs According To The Class. Hard Waste Is Essentially That From
Spinning Frames, Reeling And Winding Machines And All Other Waste Of
A Thready Nature. Soft Waste Comes From Earlier Processes Where The
Fibres Are Relatively Little Twisted, Felted, Or Compacted.
|
| Woolen |
Refers To
Fabrics Of Carded Wool Yarns Spun In The Woolen Spinning System .
These Are Shorter Coarser Yarns Than Worsted Yarns And The Fabrics
Are Heavier Than Worsteds.
|
| Woollen |
Descriptive Of
Yarns, Or Fabrics Or Garments Made From Yarns, Which Have Been
Produced On The Condenser System, Wholly From Wool Fibres, New Or
Otherwise. Note 1: As An Adjective Appertaining To Wool Generally,
The Term 'wool' And Not 'woollen' Is Recommended. Note 2: The Trade
Name 'woollen-spun' Is Applied To Staple Yarn Produced By Carding,
Condensing, And Spinning On Machinery Originally Designed For The
Processing Of Wool Into Yarn: It Is Descriptive Of The Processing
Technique And Not Fibre Content. Since The Yarn May Not Contain Any
Wool Fibre, The Alternative Condenser Spun Is Preferable.
|
| Woollen,
Blended |
Descriptive Of
Yarns Spun On The Condenser System And Having Wool As The Main
Component, Or Descriptive Of Fabrics Or Garments Made From Such
Yarns.
|
| Woollen-spun |
The Trade Name
'woollen-spun' Is Applied To Staple Yarn Produced By Carding,
Condensing, And Spinning On Machinery Originally Designed For The
Processing Of Wool Into Yarn: It Is Descriptive Of The Processing
Technique And Not Fibre Content. Since The Yarn May Not Contain Any
Wool Fibre, The Alternative Condenser Spun Is Preferable.
|
| Woollen-type
Fabric |
A Fabric
Manufactured Wholly From Woollen-type (woollen-spun ) Yarns, Or From
Cotton Warp And Woollen-type (woollen-spun) Weft And Which May Or
May Not Contain Decorative Threads Of Other Fibres.
|
| Wool-like |
Refers To A
Non-wool Fabric With A Warm Hand That Feels Like Natural Wool.
|
| Worsted |
Descriptive Of
Yams Spun Wholly From Combed Wool In Which The Fibres Are Reasonably
Parallel, And Fabrics Or Garments Made From Such Yarns. In Most
Countries Fabrics With A Small Proportion Of Non-wool Decorative
Threads Can Be Described As Worsted.
|
| Worsted |
Refers To
Fabric Of Combed Yarns Spun In The Worsted Spinning System. These
Tend To Be Longer Finer Yarns Than Those Spun In The Woolen System.
The Term Worsted Usually Refers To Wool But May Refer To Any Other
Fibers As Well. Worsted Fabrics Are Lighter And Smoother Than
Woolens. Tropical, Gabardine And Serge Are Examples Of Worsted
Fabrics.
|
| Worsted
Fabric |
A Fabric
Manufactured Wholly From Worsted Yams, Except That Decorative
Threads Of Other Fibres May Be Present.
|
Worsted
Yarns, Colour Terms
|
In All The
Definitions Given Below, The Expression 'colour' Includes Black And
White. |
| Worsted,
Blended |
Descriptive Of
Yarns In Which The Fibres Are Reasonably Parallel And Have Combed
Wool As The Main Component, Or Descriptive Of Fabrics Or Garments
Made From Such Yarns.
|
| Worsted-type
Fabric |
A Fabric
Manufactured Wholly From Worsted-type (worsted-spun) Yarns, Or From
Cotton Warp And Worsted-type (worsted-spun) Weft, And Which May Or
May Not Contain Decorative Threads Of Other Fibres.
|
| Wound
Packages (yarns) |
Yarn Wound On
Formers Which Facilitate Convenient Handling. Note: In Some Cases
The Former May Be Withdrawn Before Further Processing.
|
| Wrap Yarn |
(1) A Fibrous
Yarn Covered With Other Yarn(s) To Bind Projecting Fibre Ends To The
Main Body. Note: It Is Commonly Used For Interlinings To Prevent
Fibre Ends From Penetrating The Outer Fabric.
|
| Wrapper
Fibres |
Fibres Which
Wrap Around The Main Body Of A Staple Fibre Yarn During Yarn
Formation In The Production Of Open-end And Fasciated Yarns
|
| Wrap-spun
Yarn |
A Yarn With A
Twistless Core Wrapped With A Binder.
|
| Wrinkle |
An Unwanted
Short And Irregular Crease In A Fabric. Note: The Distinction
Between A Wrinkle And A Crease Is Often Not Clear But Creases Are
Generally Sharper And Longer Than Wrinkles.
|
Wrinkle
Resistance (u.s.a.)
|
See Crease
Resistance |
| Wrinkle
Resistant |
A Fabric That
Has Been Treated To Resist The Formation Of Wrinkles.
|