| W | |
| Wadding | A Loosely Cohering Sheet Of Fibres
Used For Padding, Upholstery, Stuffing, Packing, Or Similar Purposes. |
| Waffle | A Fabric Characterized By A
Honeycomb Texture Or Small Squares Similar To The Surface Of A Waffle.
May Be Woven Or Knit. |
| Waistcoat | From The Louis Xvi Period Onwards
Waistcoats Were Worn Under All Men's Outer Garments, Coat, Riding-coat,
Frock Coat, Jacket, Etc. Usually The Two Front Panels Were Made From
Fine Material And The Back, Which Isn't Seen, From Lining Material. |
| Wale (knitting) | A Column Of Loops Along The Length
Of A Fabric. |
| Wall Thickness, Apparent | The Apparent Width Of A Fibre Wall
As Seen When Fibres Are Examined Under A Microscope. Note: In The Cotton
Fibre Maturity Test, The Apparent Wall Thickness Assessed Visually At
The Widest Part Of The Fibres As A Fraction Of The Maximum Ribbon Width. |
| Warm | A Woolly Or Fibrous Hand Generally
Associated With Fabrics That Keep The Body Warm. |
| Warm Colours | Colors Like Red, Orange, Yellow Are
Classified As Warm Colors, They Are Advancing In Nature, Because As Seen
By The Eyes These Colors Move Closer Thereby Reducing The Size Of An
Object. Warm Colors Are Cheerful. |
| Warp | Used As A Verb - To Arrange Threads
In Long Lengths Parallel To One Another Preparatory To Further
Processing. Note: In Addition To Beaming The Following Methods Of
Warping Are Practised; Ball Warping, Cross-ball Warping, And Chain
Warping. The Primary Stage Of These Methods Of Warping Is Withdrawal Of
Ends From A Warping Creel And Their Assembly In Rope Form, A Form That
May Conveniently Be Used For Wet Processing. For Convenience Of
Handling, This Rope May Be (a) Wound Into A Ball (ball Warping), (b)
Machine-wound On To A Wooden Roller Into A Cross-ball Cheese (cross-ball
Or Cheese Warping), Or (c) Shortened Into A Link Chain (chain Warping).
A Number Of These Ropes May Be Assembled Into A Complete Warp On A Beam
Or May Be Split And Dressed And Incorporated In Warps Made By Other
Methods. |
| Warp (UK, Local, Chain) | Used As A Noun - (1) Threads
Lengthways In A Fabric As Woven. (2) A Number Of Threads In Long Lengths
And Approximately Parallel, In Various Forms Intended For Weaving,
Knitting, Doubling, Sizing, Dyeing, Or Lacemaking. |
| Warp Dressing | The Operation Of Assembling On A
Beam Yarns From A Ball Warp, Beam Warp, Or Chain Warp Immediately Prior
To Weaving. |
| Warp Knit | A Fabric Produced By Interlocking
Loops In A Lengthwise Direction . Warp Knits Tend To Be Flatter,
Smoother, More Run Resistant, And More Stable Than Weft Knits . Examples
Are Tricot, Raschel And Milanese. |
| Warp Knitting | A Method Of Making A Fabric By
Normal Knitting Means In Which The Loops Made From Each Warp Thread Are
Formed Substantially Along The Length Of The Fabric. It Is Characterized
By The Fact That Each Warp Thread Is Fed More Or Less In Line With The
Direction In Which The Fabric Is Produced. |
| Warp Print | The Warp Yarns Are Printed With A
Design Before Weaving. After Weaving The Design Then Has A Hazy Shadowy
Effect. |
| Washed | Refers To Fabrics That Have Been
Laundered Before Shipping. This May Be Done To Reduce Shrinkage, Soften
The Hand, Wash Down The Color Or To Give The Fabric A Used, Laundered
Look. |
| Washer | A Machine For Removing Impurities,
Excess Dyes Or Chemicals By Submitting Fabric Or Yarn, In Rope Or
Open-width Form, To Successive Liquid Treatments, |
| Washing-off | Treatment Of Textile Material In
Water Or Detergent Solution To Remove Substances Employed Previous
Processes. |
| Waste (cotton, Wool And Other Staple Fibres) | There Are Two Classes Of Waste Known
As 'hard' And 'soft', And Their Treatment Differs According To The
Class. Hard Waste Is Essentially That From Spinning Frames, Reeling And
Winding Machines And All Other Waste Of A Thready Nature. Soft Waste
Comes From Earlier Processes Where The Fibres Are Relatively Little
Twisted, Felted, Or Compacted. |
| Water Repellent | Fabrics That Have Been Treated To
Resist Wetting And Shed Water By Causing The Water To Bead On The
Surface. It Does Not Close The Pores Of The Fabric As Waterproof
Treatments Do, So The Fabrics Are Comfortable To Wear. It Will Offer
Protection In A Light Shower But Not Heavy Rain. Water Repellency May Be
Added By Treating The Fabric With Fluorocarbon Chemicals , Wax, Silicone
Or Resins . Sometimes Called Water Resistant. |
| Watercolor | Refers To Designs That Are
Characterized By Soft Gradations And Soft Shadings Of Color Suggestive
Of Semi-opaque Watercolor Paintings. |
| Watering | An Operation Used In Grass Bleaching
That Consists Of Spraying Fabrics Laid On A Green With Water. |
| Waterproof | The Ability Of Fabric To Be Fully
Resistant To Penetration By Water. Note: The Term Is An Absolute One And
Implies That The Water Penetration Resistance Of The Fabric Is
Equivalent To Its Hydraulic Bursting Strength. |
| Waterproof | Refers To Fabrics That Have Been
Coated, Laminated, Or Otherwise Treated To Prevent The Penetration Of
Water. |
| Water-repellent | A State Characterized By The
Non-spreading Of A Globule Of Water On A Textile Material. |
| Watteau Pleat | Box Pleat Sweeping Down From The
Shoulders To The Hem In The Loose Back Of The Gown. |
| Wax Coated | Refers To Fabric That Has Been
Coated With Wax Or Paraffin To Alter The Hand Or Appearance Or To Make
The Fabric Water Repellent. |
| Waxing, Warp | The Application Of Wax To A Warp
Sheet So As To Improve Its Weaving Performance. The Wax, In Emulsion Or
Molten Form, Is Usually Applied By A Trough And Lick Roller. The Point
Of Application May Be Between The Swift And Warp Beam In Section Warping
, Or Between The Creel And Beaming Head In Beam Warping Or Immediately
After Drying In Slasher Sizing. Normally Waxes Must Be Readily Removable
In The Subsequent Finishing Operation. Note: Alternatively Wax Is
Sometimes Applied To A Warp By Means Of A Wax Rod Placed In The Nip
Between The Warp Sheet And The Weaver's Beam At The Point Where The Yarn
Leaves The Latter. |
| Weathering | (1) The Action Of Atmospheric
Agencies Or Elements On Substances Exposed To Them. (2) The
Discoloration, Disintegration, Etc., That Results From This Action. |
| Weave | The Pattern Of Interlacing Of Warp
And Weft In A Woven Fabric |
| Web | (1) A Rarely Used Synonym For
Fabric. (2) The Sheet Of Fibres Delivered By A Card (card Web) (3) A
Plain Circular-knitted Fabric. (4) A Local And Little-used Synonym For
Warp. (5) (nonwoven) Single Or Multiple Sheets Of Fibre Used In Nonwoven
Fabric Production. Also Termed Batt |
| Webbing | A Woven Narrow Fabric, The Prime
Function Of Which Is Load Bearing. It Is Generally Of A Coarse Weave And
Has Multiple Plies. It Is Produced In Widths Up To And Including 450 Mm
And Includes All Elastic Narrow Fabrics. |
| Weepers | White Bands Which Were Worn On The
Sleeve Facings Of Coats And Jerkins In The 17th And 18th Centuries As A
Sign Of Deep Mourning. |
| Weft | (1) Threads Widthways In A Fabric As
Woven. (2) Yarn Intended For Use As In (1). |
| Weft Bobbin | See Pirn |
| Weft Carrier | A Yarn Carrier Providing A Supply Of
Weft And Driven Positively Through A Shed In A Weaving Machine. |
| Weft Knit | The Most Common Type Of Knit Formed
By Interlocking Loops In The Widthwise Direction . Weft Knit Tend To
Have More Stretch Than Warp Knits. Examples Are Interlock, Jerseys,
Double Knits, Rib Knits. |
| Weft Knitting | A Method Of Making A Fabric By
Normal Knitting Means In Which The Loops Made By Each Weft Thread Are
Formed Substantially Across The Width Of The Fabric. It Is Characterized
By The Fact That Each Weft Thread Is Fed More Or Less At Right Angles To
The Direction In Which The Fabric Is Produced. |
| Weighting | The Addition Of Metallic Salts To
Silks To Increase The Mass And Impart A Firmer Handle. |
| Wet Cleaning | The Removal Of Water-soluble Or
Emulsifiable Soil From Garments, Often Carried Out On A Draining Board
Using Tepid Water In The Presence Of Detergents. It Is Also A Process
For Cleaning Garments Etc., Made From Fabrics, E.g. Vinyi Coated
Materials, Liable To Be Damaged By Dry Cleaning Solvents. |
| Wet Fixation | A Finishing Process For
Cellulosic-fibre Fabrics That Improves The Wet Crease Recovery And
Smooth Drying Properties, But Not The Dry Crease Recovery. |
| Wet Laying | The Process Of Forming A Fibre Sheet
By Papermaking Techniques, For Nonwoven Fabric Production. |
| Wet Spinning (man-made-fibre Production) | Conversion Of A Dissolved Polymer
Into Filaments By Extrusion Into A Coagulating Liquid. Note: The
Extrusion May Be Directly Into The Coagulating Liquid Or Through A Small
Air-gap. In The Latter Case It May Be Known As Dry-jet Wet Spinning Or
Air-gap Wet Spinning. v |
| Wet-laid | Formation Of A Non-woven Fabric By
Suspending Fibers In Water To Disperse Them Evenly . The Suspension Is
Poured Onto A Moving Screen Allowing The Water To Pass Through And
Leaving A Fiber Web, Which Is Then Dried To Form The Fabric. |
| Wet-spun | (1) Descriptive Of A Yarn Of Flax,
Hemp, Or Similar Fibre Spun From Roving That Has Been Thoroughly Wetted
Out In Hot Water Immediately Prior To The Drafting Operation. (2)
Descriptive Of Man-made Filament Produced By Wet Spinning. |
| Whipcord | A Strong, Firm Fabric With A
Prominent, Steep, Indented Twill Line. Used For Trousers, Drapery,
Upholstery. |
| Width, Fabric | Unless Otherwise Specified, The
Distance From Edge To Edge Of A Fabric When Laid Flat On A Table Without
Tension. In The Case Of Commercial Dispute The Measurement Should Be
Made After The Fabric Has Been Conditioned In A Standard Atmosphere For
Testing . When Buying And Selling Fabric It Is Normal To Specify The
Basis On Which The Width Is To Be Assessed E.g., Overall, Within Limits,
Or Usable Width (which Implies Within Stenter Pin Marks). |
| Wild Silk | Fibres Extruded By Insect Larvae
Other Than Bombyx Mori. |
| Wildness | A Ruffled Appearance Of The Surface
Fibres In Slivers, Slubbings, Rovings, And Yams. Note: Wildness May Be
Due To The Processing Of These Products Under Dry Atmospheric Conditions
Which Causes Increased Inter-fibre Friction And Static-electricity
Troubles. The Static Charges Cause Mutual Fibre Repulsion And Prevent
Fibres From Taking Up Normal Orderly Positions In The Respective
Products. |
| Willey (UK, Local, Willow,
Teaze) |
To Open And Disentangle Fibres Prior To Scouring And/or Carding |
| Willey; Tenterhook Willow;
Fearnought; Teazer, Cockspur Willey |
A Machine Consisting Of Bladed Or Pinned Rollers For Opening, Cleaning And Mixing Staple Fibre Material As A Preliminary To Scouring (for Greasy Wool) Or Carding (for Most Animal And Synthetic Fibres). |
| Winch; Wince | A Dyeing Machine In Which One Or
More Endless Lengths Of Fabric Are Drawn Through The Dyebath By A
Rotating Reel Or Drum Above The Surface Of The Dye Liquor. |
| Wind Ratio | The Number Of Wraps Wound On A
Take-up Package While The Traverse Completes A Full Stroke In One
Direction. |
| Winder | A Machine Used For Transferring Yam
From One Package To Another. |
| Windowpane | A Design That Looks Like A
Windowpane, With Narrow Bands Of One Color Forming An Over-check That
Encloses Rectangles Of Another Ground Color. |
| Wool | The Fibrous Covering Of A Sheep (see
Note Under Hair). |
| Wool Classing | See Classing |
| Wool Sorting | A Process By Which Fleece Or Skin
Wool Is Divided Up Into Various Qualities. It Is Usually Carried Out By
The User. |
| Wool Waste | There Are Two Classes Of Waste Known
As 'hard' And 'soft', And Their Treatment Differs According To The
Class. Hard Waste Is Essentially That From Spinning Frames, Reeling And
Winding Machines And All Other Waste Of A Thready Nature. Soft Waste
Comes From Earlier Processes Where The Fibres Are Relatively Little
Twisted, Felted, Or Compacted. |
| Woolen | Refers To Fabrics Of Carded Wool
Yarns Spun In The Woolen Spinning System . These Are Shorter Coarser
Yarns Than Worsted Yarns And The Fabrics Are Heavier Than Worsteds. |
| Woollen | Descriptive Of Yarns, Or Fabrics Or
Garments Made From Yarns, Which Have Been Produced On The Condenser
System, Wholly From Wool Fibres, New Or Otherwise. Note 1: As An
Adjective Appertaining To Wool Generally, The Term 'wool' And Not
'woollen' Is Recommended. Note 2: The Trade Name 'woollen-spun' Is
Applied To Staple Yarn Produced By Carding, Condensing, And Spinning On
Machinery Originally Designed For The Processing Of Wool Into Yarn: It
Is Descriptive Of The Processing Technique And Not Fibre Content. Since
The Yarn May Not Contain Any Wool Fibre, The Alternative Condenser Spun
Is Preferable. |
| Woollen, Blended | Descriptive Of Yarns Spun On The
Condenser System And Having Wool As The Main Component, Or Descriptive
Of Fabrics Or Garments Made From Such Yarns. |
| Woollen-spun | The Trade Name 'woollen-spun' Is
Applied To Staple Yarn Produced By Carding, Condensing, And Spinning On
Machinery Originally Designed For The Processing Of Wool Into Yarn: It
Is Descriptive Of The Processing Technique And Not Fibre Content. Since
The Yarn May Not Contain Any Wool Fibre, The Alternative Condenser Spun
Is Preferable. |
| Woollen-type Fabric | A Fabric Manufactured Wholly From
Woollen-type (woollen-spun ) Yarns, Or From Cotton Warp And Woollen-type
(woollen-spun) Weft And Which May Or May Not Contain Decorative Threads
Of Other Fibres. |
| Wool-like | Refers To A Non-wool Fabric With A
Warm Hand That Feels Like Natural Wool. |
| Worsted | Descriptive Of Yams Spun Wholly From
Combed Wool In Which The Fibres Are Reasonably Parallel, And Fabrics Or
Garments Made From Such Yarns. In Most Countries Fabrics With A Small
Proportion Of Non-wool Decorative Threads Can Be Described As Worsted. |
| Worsted | Refers To Fabric Of Combed Yarns
Spun In The Worsted Spinning System. These Tend To Be Longer Finer Yarns
Than Those Spun In The Woolen System. The Term Worsted Usually Refers To
Wool But May Refer To Any Other Fibers As Well. Worsted Fabrics Are
Lighter And Smoother Than Woolens. Tropical, Gabardine And Serge Are
Examples Of Worsted Fabrics. |
| Worsted Fabric | A Fabric Manufactured Wholly From
Worsted Yams, Except That Decorative Threads Of Other Fibres May Be
Present. |
| Worsted Yarns, Colour Terms |
In All The Definitions Given Below, The Expression 'colour' Includes Black And White. |
| Worsted, Blended | Descriptive Of Yarns In Which The
Fibres Are Reasonably Parallel And Have Combed Wool As The Main
Component, Or Descriptive Of Fabrics Or Garments Made From Such Yarns. |
| Worsted-type Fabric | A Fabric Manufactured Wholly From
Worsted-type (worsted-spun) Yarns, Or From Cotton Warp And Worsted-type
(worsted-spun) Weft, And Which May Or May Not Contain Decorative Threads
Of Other Fibres. |
| Wound Packages (yarns) | Yarn Wound On Formers Which
Facilitate Convenient Handling. Note: In Some Cases The Former May Be
Withdrawn Before Further Processing. |
| Wrap Yarn | (1) A Fibrous Yarn Covered With
Other Yarn(s) To Bind Projecting Fibre Ends To The Main Body. Note: It
Is Commonly Used For Interlinings To Prevent Fibre Ends From Penetrating
The Outer Fabric. |
| Wrapper Fibres | Fibres Which Wrap Around The Main
Body Of A Staple Fibre Yarn During Yarn Formation In The Production Of
Open-end And Fasciated Yarns |
| Wrap-spun Yarn | A Yarn With A Twistless Core Wrapped
With A Binder. |
| Wrinkle | An Unwanted Short And Irregular
Crease In A Fabric. Note: The Distinction Between A Wrinkle And A Crease
Is Often Not Clear But Creases Are Generally Sharper And Longer Than
Wrinkles. |
| Wrinkle Resistance (u.s.a.) |
See Crease Resistance |
| Wrinkle Resistant | A Fabric That Has Been Treated To
Resist The Formation Of Wrinkles. |