NARROW FABRICS » Glossary of Products

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Aba	A Loose Cloak, Possibly Of Arabian Origin. Related To The Jama In Men's Wear, And To The Abbo (q.v.) in Women's.
Abaca	Fibre Obtained From The Plant Musa Textiles, Commonly Known As Manila
Abho	A Loose Shirt-like Garment, Worn By Women Mostly In Gujarat And Rajasthan. The Garment Was Generally Worn With Short, Wide Sleeves, Open At The Neck, Loose-fitting On The Upper Part And Really Flared In Its Skirt. Often Decorated With Embroidery And Mirror-glass Work.
Abstract	Refers To A Design In The Abstract Style, I.e. One That Represents A General Form And Not An Accurate Representation Of A Subject.
Accessories	Additional Ornamentation To Accompany The Garment In Order To Create A Certain Look/image. (shoes, Jewelries Etc.)
Accordion	1x1 Rib Knit Alternating With A 2x2 Rib.
Acetate (fibre) (generic Name)	The Term Used To Describe Fibres Of Cellulose Ethanoate (acetate) Wherein Between 74% And 92% Of The Hydroxyl Groups Of The Original Cellulose Are Ethanoylated (acetylated). Purified Cellulose Is Ethanoylated (acetylated) By Ethanoic Anhydride (acetic Anhydride) In The Presence Of A Catalyst (such As Sulphuric Acid Or Perchloric Acid) In A Solvent Such As Dichloromethane (methylene Chloride) Or Ethanoic (acetic) Acid. The Reaction Proceeds Until Primary Cellulose Acetate Containing 60% Of Combined Ethanoic Acid Is Formed. Secondary Cellulose Acetate Is Formed From The Primary Acetate By Partial Hydrolysis. It Is Obtained By Adding Water In Excess Of That Required To React With The Residual Ethanoic Anhydride, Which Thus Allows The Hydrolysis To Take Place.
Acetone-soluble Cellulose Ethanoate (acetate)	When The Hydrolysis Of Primary Cellulose Ethanoate (acetate) Is Allowed To Proceed Until Approximately 54% Of Combined Ethanoic (acetic) Acid Remains In The Product, The Cellulose Acetate Is Soluble In Propanone (acetone) And Is Sometimes Known As Acetone-soluble Cellulose Acetate.
Acetylation	The Process Of Introducing An Ethanoyl (acetyl) Radical Into An Organic Molecule.
Achkan	A Men's Long-sleeved Coat-like Garment, Worn Close To The Body, Reaching Down To The Knees Or Even Lower, And Buttoned In Front-middle.
Acid Dye	An Anionic Dye Characterized By Substantiality For Protein And Polyamide Fibres And Usually Applied From An Acidic Or Neutral Dye bath.
Acrylic (fibre) (generic Name)	A Term Used To Describe Fibres Composed Of Synthetic Linear Macromolecules Having In The Chain At Least 85% (by Mass) Of Recurring Cyanoethene (acrylonitrile) Groups.
Acrylic Coated	A Fabric Which Has Been Coated, Generally On The Back, With Acrylic Resin To Make It Waterproof Or Dawnproof.
Addition Polymenrizatio	See Polymerization, Addition
Affinity	The Quantitative Expression Of Substantiality. It Is The Difference Between The Chemical Potential Of The Dye In Its Standard State In The Fibre And The Corresponding Chemical Potential In The Dye bath.
Aguillettes	Metal-tagged Laces That Replaced The Sewn Ones, To Attach The Breeches To The Doublet.
Air Laying	A Method Of Forming A Web (or Batt) Of Staple Fibres In Which The Fibres Are Dispersed Into An Air Stream And Condensed From The Air Stream On To A Permeable Cage Or Conveyor.
Albatross	A Lightweight, Plain Weave Fabric Traditionally Of Wool Or Wool Blends With A Napped, Fleecy Surface . So Named Because The Texture Resembles The Breast Of An Albatross. Usually Light In Color- Used In Infant's Wear , Sleep Wear.
Alencon Lace	A Needlepoint Lace On A Fine Net Ground Characterized By A Heavy Thread (cordonnet) Outlining The Design. Usually Machine Made But Sometimes The Cordonnet Is Inserted By Hand.
Alginate (fibre) (generic Name)	A Term Used To Describe Fibres Composed Of Metallic Salts Of Alginic Acid.
Alkali-cellulose	The Product Of The Interaction Of Strong Sodium Hydroxide With Purified Cellulose.note: In The Manufacture Of Viscose Fibres, The Cellulose May Be Cotton Linters Or Wood-pulp. After Pressing, Alkali-cellulose Usually Contains Approximately 30% Of Cellulose And 15% Of Sodium Hydroxide, The Remainder Being Water. During The Steeping Of The Cellulose In Sodium Hydroxide (18-20% W/w) To Form The Alkali-cellulose, Soluble Impurities, Including Soluble Cellulose Are Removed.
Alligator Skin	A Design, Printed Or Embossed, That Suggests The Characteristic Texture Of An Alligator.
Allonge-perruqe	French Term For Periwig, Also Called State-wig. Worn By Fashionable Men In The Late 17th, Early 18th Century, Introduced Probably By Louis Xiv And Usually In Black Or Dark Brown Shades. The Periwig Had Very High "horns" On Top Of The Forehead And Was Extremely Long, Curled And Flowing Down The Back And Over The Shoulders.
Allover Lace	General Term For A Wide Lace In Which The Pattern Covers The Full Width Of The Fabric . It Is Generally Sold And Cut In The Same Way As Non Lace Fabrics.
Alpaca Fibre (hair)	Fibre From The Fleece Of The Alpaca (lama Pacos) Which Inhabits The High Mountain Region Of South America.
Alter	To Change The Pattern So That It Corresponds To Body Measurements.
Amadis Sleeve	Tight-fitting Sleeve Continuing On The Back Of The Hand, Invented In 1684 By Mlle Le Rochois, An Actress At The Opera, Who Had Unsightly Arms.
Anaphe	A Wild Silk From The Larvae Of The Anaphe Moth.
Angarakfia	A Long, Full-sleeved Outerwear For Men; Literally 'that Which Protects Or Covers The Limbs'. Closely Related To The Jama (q.v.), But Possibly Of Native, Indian Origin. Generally Open At The Chest And Tied In Front, With An Inner Flap Or Parda Covering The Chest. Full-skirted And Of Varying Lengths.
Angiaiangika	Short, Tight-fitting Bodice Worn By Women In India From Very Early Times. Literally, 'covering For The Body.
Angora	The Hair Of The Angora Rabbit. The Origin Of The Angora Breed Ins Unclear. It Is Believed To Come From France, Developed From A Mutation In A Wild Rabbit, In The 18th Century. Note: The Hair Of The Angora Goat Is Referred To As Mohair.
Anidex (fibre)	A Term Used To Describe Fibres Made From A Synthetic Linear Polymer That Consists Of At Least 50% By Mass Of One Or More Esters Of A Monohydric Alcohol And Propenoic Acid (acrylic Acid).
Animal Skin	Refers To A Design Which Suggests The Skin Of An Animal . Leopard, Tiger, Zebra And Giraffe Are Popular Motifs.
Anionic Dye	A Dye That Dissociates In Aqueous Solution To Give A Negatively Charged Ion.
Antheraea Spp.	See Tussah Silk. See Also Fibre Types
Anti Bacterial	Finish That Makes A Fabric Resistant To The Growth Of Bacteria.
Anti Pill	A Finish Applied To Fleece Which Involves Shearing The Surface So That The Fabric Is Less Likely To Pill
Antique Satin	A Reversible Fabric - One Side Looks Like Satin And The Other Side Like Shantung. It Often Has A Dark Warp Which Enhances The Texture. Often Used For Draperies.
Antique Taffeta	A Stiff Plain Weave Fabric , Often Iridescent, With A Slubbed Weft. May Be Of Silk Or Synthetics.
Antron	Brand Of Nylon Fiber Trademarked By The Du Pont Co.
Apparent Wall Thickness	The Apparent Width Of A Fibre Wall As Seen Under The Microscope. In The Maturity Test For Cotton, The Apparent Wall Thickness Is Assessed Visually At The Widest Part Of The Fibres As A Fraction Of The Maximum Ribbon Width.
Aramid (fibre) (generic Name)	A Term Used To Describe Fibres Composed Of Synthetic Linear Macromolecules Having In The Chain Recurring Amide Groups, At Least 85% Of Which Are Joined Directly By Two Aromatic Rings And In Which Amide Groups May Be Substituted For Up To 50% Of The Amide Groups.
Argentan Lace	A Needlepoint Lace On A Net Ground Similar To Alencon Lace But On A Larger Net And Without The Cordonnet Outline Thread Of Alencon.
Argyle	A Design Of Various Colored Diamond Shaped Blocks On A Single Colored Ground, Usually Crossed By Lines In A Diamond Shape. Popular In Sweaters And Hosiery.
Art/embroidery Linen	A Balanced Plain Weave Fabric Usually Of Linen Or Linen/cotton . It Is Made From Smooth Round Yarns (not Flattened By Calendering) . Used As A Base For Embroidered Table Linen, Pillowcases, Also In Drapes, Slipcovers And Some Apparel. Also Called Embroidery Crash.
Asbestos	A Generic Name Used To Describe A Family Of Naturally Occurring Fibrous Hydrated Silicates Divided On The Basis Of Mineralogical Features Into Serpentines And Amphiboles. Six Varieties Were Of Commercial Importance : Serpentine: Chrysotile Mg3 (si2o5) (oh)4, Amphiboles: Actinolite Ca2 (mgfe)5 (si6o22) (oh)2, Asbestos Grunerite ( Amosite) (femg)7 (si6o22) (oh)2, Anthhophyllite (mgfe)7 (si6o22)(oh)2, Crocidolite Na2fe2+3fe3+2(si6o22)(oh)2, Tremolite Ca2mg5(si6o22)(oh)2,the Six Varieties Are Deemed To Be Asbestos Only When They Have A Fibrous Form., Note: Asbestos Is No Longer Used Because Of The Associated Health Risks.
Asharfi Buti	A Popular Textile Design Consisting Of Small Floral Discs Or Circles, Sometimes With Small Patterns Within The Circle.
Astrakhan	A Thick Woven Or Knitted Cloth Often Of Wool With A Surface Of Loops Or Curls, Imitating The Coat Of An Astrakhan Lamb. Also Called Poodle Cloth. Used For Coats And Trimming.
Atactic Polymer	A Linear Polymer Containing Asymmetrically-substituted Carbon Atoms In The Repeating Unit Of The Main Chain, A Planar Projection Of Whose Structure Has The Same Substituents Situated Randomly To Any One Side Or The Other Of The Main Chain,
Atansaw	A Wide, Commodious Chogha (q.v.)like Garment For Wrapping Around The Body.
Atlas	A Warp Knit Fabric In Which A Set Of Yarns Shifts Diagonally One Wale Per Course For Several Courses , Then Returns To The Original Position.
Atmosphere For Testing	(a) Standard Temperate Atmosphere : An Atmosphere At The Prevailing Barometric Pressure With A Relative Humidity Of 65% And A Temperature Of 20ºc, (b) Standard Tropical Atmosphere : An Atmosphere At The Prevailing Barometric Pressure With A Relative Humidity Of 65% And A Temperature Of 27ºc
Awning Stripe	1. A Design Of Wide Even Stripes 2. A Heavy Canvas Fabric With This Design. May Be Yarn Dyed Or Printed.
Azlon (fibre) (USA)	A Term Used To Describe Manufactured Fibres In Which The Fibre-forming Substance Is Composed Of Any Regenerated Naturally Occurring Protein. The Iso Generic Name Is Protein.

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