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- damask A reversible figured fabric woven
from one type of warp and one type of weft, based usually on a satin
weave. Used for furnishings and in the bleached state for
tablecloths etc.
- delaine A printed lightweight, plain-weave cloth made
form wool. It originated from mousseline delaine which means wool
muslin.
- denim A warp-faced twill with dyed yarns, generally blue
or brown, in the warp and a white weft. It is often made form cotton
in a 3/1 twill weave and pre-shrunk during finishing for use in
overalls and jeans. Weights range from 200 – 300 g/m².
Brushed denim and stretch denim are also produced. Stonewash
finishing is achieved by tumbling garments vigorously in a
laundry-type machine containing pebbles and possibly bleach.
- dimity A fabric, usually of cotton, that is checked or
striped by corded effects which are made by weaving two or more
threads together as one.
- dobby A mechanism applied to a loom that enables weaves
and patterns to be produced that cannot be obtained on a tappet
loom, but are much less elaborate than those obtained by Jacquard
weaving. Fabrics so woven are referred to as dobby fabrics.
- doeskin cloth A fine woollen, warp-face cloth usually of
Merino wool, milled, raised and dress-face finished. It is similar
to beaver cloth but lighter and finer.
- dogtooth See Colour and Weave effects
- domet An imitation flannel made mostly from cotton. Both
sides of the cloth are raised. It is used as an interlining in
tailoring.
- dotted swiss A fine, fairly stiff cotton muslin-type
fabric with a clip-spot effect.
- dress-face finish This term applies to woollen cloth
covered with a lustrous nap of short fibres. This is largely the
result of milling, raising, cropping and laying the nap under
suitable conditions smoothly in one direction. The finish is applied
to fabrics such as doeskin, beaver and pilot cloths.
- drill A warp-faced twill similar to a denim but usually
bleached or piece-dyed. It may be mineral khaki dyed for overalls. ‘Satin
drills’ are made in a 5-end satin weave.
- duck A closely woven, strong, plain-weave cloth similar
to canvas and used for similar purposes. The term also applies to
tropical suitings.
- duffel A heavy, low-quality woollen cloth napped on both
faces. Generally made into short ‘duffel’ coats
- dungaree A strong cotton cloth, similar to denim, made
for overalls. A 3/1 or 2/1 twill is used. The cloth may be yarn or
piece-dyed.
- dupion The cloth was originally made from silk obtained
from double cocoons, which gave an irregular yarn. This yarn gives
the cloth its characteristic slubby texture. Manufactured fibres are
now used with such effects.
- epitropic fibre Fibre having particles
embedded in its surface to modify one or more of its properties, for
example, its tendency to accumulate static electricity.
- faced cloth A general term fort cloths,
such as box and doeskin, in which the laid pile produces a luxurious
effect.
- facing silk A lustrous fabric used for facing lapels in
evening suits. Barathea, ottoman, satin and twill structures are
used. Often silk is not used in the cloth in which case it should
not be referred to as a ‘silk’ facing.
- façonné A term applied to figured fabrics.
- faille A fine, soft fabric woven from filament yarn made
in a plain weave with weft-way ribs formed by the intersection of a
fine close-set warp with a coarser weft. Faille belongs to a group
of fabrics having ribs in the weft direction. Examples of this group
arranged in ascending order of prominence of the rib are taffeta,
faille, poult and grosgrain.
- felt The cloth is identified by its densely matted
appearance. It may have first been woven before the finish was
developed, or it may consist of a mass of animal fibres, which have
been made to felt or mat together to form a continuous sheet of
fabric without aid of yarns.
- figured fabric A fabric having a Jacquard or dobby
pattern
- fishnet An open-work structure weft-knitted from a
combination of floated stitches and plated stitches. Used for
run-resistant stockings.
- flannel A plain or twill weave fabric with a soft handle
due to being slightly milled and raised. The cloth was originally
made entirely from wool but now commonly contains some other fibre
also. Both woollen and worsted fabrics are produced weighing about
200 g/m²
- flannelette A cotton imitation of the wool flannel.
Softly twisted yarns are used in the weft and these respond to the
action of the raising machine. A nap is produced on both faces if
the cloth. Flannelette weighs 180 – 200 g/m² and is
similar to but heavier than winceyette. It may be piece-dyed,
printed or woven from dyed yarns to produce coloured stripes.
Flannelette has been used for children’s nightwear but it is
legally required to be made flame-retardant. Heavier qualities are
used for sheets.
- folk weave A loosely woven fabric made from coarse yarn
and having a rough surface often with coloured warp or weft stripes.
- foulard A lightweight 2/2 twill fabric made from
continuous filament flat yarns. It is often printed. It is similar
to surah, which was originally made from silk.
- frieze A woollen overcoating which has been heavily
milled and raised. The nap may be rubbed into small beads or ‘pills’
to produce a ‘nap frieze’.
- fustian A general term used to describe a group of
fabrics which have a considerably greater number of picks than ends.
Beaverteen, corduroy, moleskin cloth and velveteen are examples.‘nap
frieze’.
- gabardine A warp-faced cloth, firmly
woven in 2/1 or 2/2 twill with a greater number of ends than picks.
The fairly steep twill lines can be clearly seen since the yarns
used are compact. The fabric is finished to give a clear, clean
appearance. Gabardines are commonly made from worsted yarns,
all-cotton yarns, unions of wool and cotton and blends of various
fibres. Gabardine to be used for rainwear must be shower-proof.
- gingham A firm, plain-weave, lightweight cloth of nearly
square construction woven with dyed yarns to form a check. Commonly
made from cotton, used for dresses, tablecloths etc.
- grey cloth This term is applied to woven and knitted
fabrics and is synonymous with ‘loomstate’ which refers to
the condition in which the woven cloth leaves the loom.
- grosgrain A cloth of about 180 g/sq. metre in which the
rounded rib runs in the weft direction and is more pronounced than
that in a taffeta or poult. The warp consists of closely woven
continuous filament yarns. Rather coarse yarn is used in the weft.
- guipure An openwork lace. The method of production is to
embroider a ground fabric which is then removed, usually by chemical
means.
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