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Habutai : A general term applied to
silk fabrics that are fine, soft and have been degummed. Jappe is an
example of this group.
Haircord : The cloth bears the name of the modified
plain-weave from which it is made. Fine ribs run in the warp
direction of the cloth which may be printed and is usually made from
cotton.
Herringbome : Fabric made from a herringbone weave.
Hessian : A plain fabric of approximately square
construction woven from one of the bast fibres, usually jute
Holland : A thin, glazed, medium-weight plain-weave
cloth made from cotton or flax which has been beetled or has
received a glazed finish. Used for window blinds, furniture
covering.
Homespun : Coarse tweeds handwoven from handspun wool
yarns in 2/2 twill-weave.
Honeycomb : The cloth bears the name of the honeycomb
weaves which are designed to produce a cellular effect. It is made
in a range of weights according to its use eg dress fabric or
counterpane.
Hopsack : The cloth of square construction takes its
name from the modified plain-weave from which it is made. It is
synonymous with weaves known as basket or matt.
Italian : A lining fabric, usually made
from cotton in a 5-shaft sateen weave, with lustrous finish produced
mainly by Schreinering. The combination of a cotton warp and worsted
weft also may be used.
Jacquard : Fabric woven with a large
scale repeat requiring a mechanically controlled mechanism (the
Jacquard mechanism)to select and lift the warp while weaving. Can
acheive a more complex weave than a dobby or tappet loom.
Jappe : A fine, soft, lightweight (70 g/m²)
plain-woven cloth of approximately square construction. Continuous
filament silk yarns are usually used. The fabric is used for lining
but is suitable for dresswear if printed.
Kersey : A dense woollen cloth similar
to a melton. Often made from 2/2 twill, milled and finished to give
a short lustrous nap.
Lamb’s wool : Wool from the fleece
of lambs or young sheep up to the stage of weaning, irrespective of
breed or type of sheep. The term lambswool is, however, used
commercially to indicate a fabric or garment having a soft handle,
made totally of virgin wool, a proportion of which is lamb’s
wool.
Lamé : Applied to fabrics having flat metallic
threads which form either the ground or a decorative figure.
Lawn : A lightweight, plain-woven cloth of linen or
cotton of a soft, smooth and sheer character. Spun yarns made from
polyester fibres are also used in this type of fabric.
Leathercloth : A coated fabric which is embossed to give
a leather-like appearance.
Leno : A cellular type of cloth made by crossing warp
threads in weaving.
Limbric : A closely woven plain-weave cloth. The softly
twisted weft is thicker than the warp yarn and the picks per
centimetre exceed the number of ends. The weft is prominent and has
a slight lustre because of its low twist. Used as a dress fabric
Linen : This describes cloth woven from linen yarns spun
entirely from flax. Many fabrics with the characteristic slubby and
thready appearance of linen are made from viscose, polyester and
blends. For this reason it is important to state the fibre content
of linen-type cloths.
Linsey-wolsey : A fairly coarse fabric having a linen
warp and a worsted weft.
Lisle thread : A cotton hosiery yarn, hard twisted,
plied (usually 2 ply), gassed and often mercerised. Formerly used
for lisle stockings.
Loden : A coarse woollen milled fabric of Austrian
origin used for outerwear (eg coats and capes) and given a
water-repellent finish.
Loom : Machine designed to interlace warp and weft yarns
to produce woven fabric
Lycra : A man made fibre with elastane properties
manufactured by Dupont
Marcella : A piqué structure
with a fancy or figured woven design. Often made from cotton and
used for dress shirt fronts.
Marquisette : A lightweight Leno gauze.
Matelassé : A fabric with a quilted appearance
produced in weaving. This is achieved by the use of a double or
compound structure. It is often used for formal dress wear.
Matt : A modified plain weave in which two or more ends
and picks weave as one. The fabric may be known as ‘matt’
or ‘hopsack’ or ‘basket weave’.
Melange fabric : Fabric in which bands of colour are
printed at intervals across a thick rope of slubbing of fibres prior
to spinning. When the slubbing is attenuated during yarn
manufacture, a very even blend of dyed and undyed fibre is produced
and by this means, if black has been used, a grey yarn results.
Melded fabric : A fabric made from or containing
bi-component fibres. By heating to a suitable temperature one of the
component fibres may be softened, producing adhesion.
Melton : A heavyweight fabric suitable for overcoats.
Lighter weights are used as undercollars in suits. It may be
entirely of wool or with a cotton warp and a woollen weft in 2/2
twill or other simple weave. It is heavily milled, raised and
cropped.
Mercerised : cloth Cotton or linen cloth treated with a
cold concentrated solution of caustic soda with or without tension
is said to have been mercerised.
Merino wool : A fine white wool obtained from the merino
breed of sheep or a fabric made from this wool. The term tends to be
used rather loosely
Mock leno : A cellular type cloth produced from a mock
Leno weave in which spaces develop between groups of threads.
Moiré : A watermark effect produced on lustrous
ribbed or corded cloths by localised flattening of the ribs during
finishing. The flattened areas reflect the light differently from
the rest of the cloth and consequently produce the distinctive
appearance. The finish is generally not resistant to washing.
Various styles of moiré can be produced, such as reversal or
mirror image of the moiré pattern across the cloth and
centred on the middle, and a striped moiré produced by
suitably engraved rollers.
Moleskin cloth : This cloth is very much like uncut
velveteen. It is heavier than a beaverteen with about 140 picks per
centimetre.
Molleton : A heavy reversible woollen flannel with a nap
on both faces. Now made from other fibres.
Moquette : A warp-pile upholstery fabric. The pile may
be either cut or uncut, or patterned with cut and uncut pile.
Mousseline (de-soie) : A French term describing muslin
which was originally made of silk. Now Mousseline is applied to
similar fabrics made from fibres other than silk.
Mull : A very fine, soft, lightweight, plain-weave of
fairly open texture and almost square construction. Weight about 50
g/m².
Muslin : A general term for soft, fine, plain weave or
simple Leno weave cloths of very lightweight, open, square
construction. Muslin for dress wear may be decorated with
embroidery, clip-spot or lappet design
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