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- Nap fabric : This refers to woollen
overcoating of up to 1,000 g/m² which has been rubbed during
finishing to produce a beady or pilled surface.
- Narrow fabric : Sometimes known as ‘smallwares’.
(1) Any textile fabric not exceeding 45 cm in width with 2 selvedges
(2) Any trimming
- Needlecord : A fine-ribbed corduroy used for dresses.
- Ninon : This may be used to describe a voile fabric made
form manufactured fibres. Originally it applied to fine, light open
silk cloths with highly twisted yarns woven in groups of two or
three in both warp and weft and known as double or triple Ninon.
- Nun’s veiling : A very lightweight cloth in
plain-weave, usually woven from worsted, silk, or cotton yarns and
dyed black.
- Ombré : A cloth showing
graduated colours or shades produced in weaving, dyeing or printing.
- Ondé or ondulé : Descriptive of fabrics
having a wavy effect of wavy lines produced by weaving or
calendering. In the former, either the weft yarns or the warp follow
a waving pattern.
- Organdie : A lightweight, plain-weave cotton fabric
which has been given a durably stiff transparent finish, preferably
by treatment with strong sulphuric acid. Used for dresses and
stiffening.
- Organza : A sheer, stiff, plain-weave cloth originally
made from continuous filament silk in the gum, but now also made
from continuous filament manufactured fibres. This fabric may be
dyed, printed or machine embroidered.
- Ottoman : A warp-faced cloth with a fairly flat, bold,
smooth, weft-way rib. Originally made from a silk warp and worsted
weft. The heavier weight cloths are suitable for tailoring and may
have a small fancy design included in the general weft-way rib
effect.
- Oxford : A good quality shirting fabric made in a
plain-weave with two ends weaving as one. It is generally made from
cotton. Stripes of dyed yarn or decorative weaves are sometimes
introduced.
- Panama : A worsted fabric with a clear
finish weighing about 200 g/m² and used for tropical suitings.
The fabric is of a plain-weave and square construction. Fibres other
than wool may be used. (NB A Panama embroidery canvas of a hopsack
weave which is beetled must not be confused with the worsted
Panama).
- Peau de soie : A French term meaning literally ‘skin
of silk’, applied originally to a fine silk fabric in a
modified satin weave having a ribbed or grained appearance,
sometimes reversible. The term nowadays includes fabrics made from
manufactured fibres. It is recommended that in such contexts the
make of the fibre should be indicated.
- Percale : A plain-weave, good quality, closely woven
cotton cloth of approximately square construction. It may be glazed
in finishing. Used typically for summer dresses and sheets.
- Piece : The unit length of fabric removed from the loom.
The standard length depends on the type of fabric but may be such as
best suits the purchaser. Piece lengths are generally between 75 and
120m. According to the state of the cloth expressions such as ‘loomstate
piece’ and ‘dyed piece’ may be used.
- Pile fabric : A fabric with tufts of fibre or loops of
yarn projecting from the surface. The most important classes of pile
fabric at present are (a) woven, in which case it has cut or uncut
warp pile or cut weft pile, (b) knitted, in which case end of fibres
may form the pile or the pile may consist of loops, or, (c) tufted,
which results in brushed, cut or uncut pile.
- Pilot : A heavily milled and raised woollen cloth
generally used for seamen’s jackets and overcoats. It is
available in a wide range of fibre qualities. A 2/2 twill is often
used.
- Piqué : Originally a woven cloth with rounded
cords running in the weft direction, now often made in a lightweight
Bedford cord weave with the cord running in the warp direction.
Different widths of cord may be produced in one cloth to create
interest and the fabric may be printed. A piqué effect may be
produced by warp or weft knitting.
- Plush : A cut warp-pile fabric similar to a velvet but
having a longer end less dense pile laid in one direction.
- Pongee : True pongee is woven from wild silk in a plain
weave. It is rather lighter in weight and somewhat less irregular in
appearance than shantung. It is now also made from some manufactured
fibres and cotton. Cotton pongees are mercerised and Schreinered to
develop the lustre. Weight about 75 g/m²
- Poplin : A plain weave cloth with fine weft-way ribs.
There are twice as many ends as picks. It is frequently made from
cotton or blends, preferably with 2-fold yarns. Poplin is available
in various weights, making it suitable for shirts or rainwear,
depending on the finish applied. Sometimes it is printed or woven
with decorative stripes. An Irish poplin used to be made with a silk
warp and a worsted weft.
- Poult : A plain weave fabric made from continuous
filament yarns with a more pronounced, smooth, clear rib than a
taffeta and a faille because of the inclusion of a coarser weft and
about three times as many ends as there are picks. This fabric may
be moiré finished. It was originally known as Poult-de-Soie.
Weight about 140 g/m²
- Printed cloth : A cloth on which a coloured pattern has
been printed.
- Pure new wool : A description of wool textiles carrying
the IWS Woolmark. A maximum tolerance of 5% is allowed for non-wool
fibres used for decorative effects and 0.3% for inadvertent
impurities
- Ratiné : Originally a thick
woollen cloth with a curled nap. Ratiné, the past participle
of the French verb ratiner (meaning to cover with a curled nap) has
also been applied to a cloth made form a variety of fibres, with a
rough surface produced in one of a number of different ways, either
by using a fancy yarn in a cloth to which a special finishing
technique may or may not be applied or by using ordinary yarns in a
cloth to which the special finish is applied.
- Regatta : A good quality 2/1 twill fabric of almost
square construction and about 180 g/m² woven in even width
stripes of dyed and white yarns. It is commonly made from cotton or
other suitable staple fibre. Often used for nurse’s uniforms.
- Regina : A fine quality 2/1 twill fabric with about
twice as many ends as picks and weighing about 100 g/m²
- Ribbon : An attractive woven fabric characterised in the
higher qualities by fine warp yarns and high warp density and
usually of lustrous appearance. Generally used for trimming and
adornment.
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