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- Sailcloth : A weft-way ribbed fabric of
a character between poplin repp. It is heavier than poplin and may
be given a crease-resist finish. It feels rather stiff and is used
for dress wear.
- Sardinian : A woollen overcoating weighing 800 g/m²
based on a twill repeating on 8 threads with 15 ends and 20 picks
per cm. The face is raised to a dense nap and rubbed into small beds
or ‘pills’.
- Sateen : A weft-faced cloth made in one of the sateen
weaves, usually with many more picks than ends. The fabric is
usually Schreinered to improve the cover and make it lustrous.
- Satin : A warp-faced cloth made from a satin weave
containing many more ends than picks. The fabric is available in
various weights and qualities, the heaviest being the Duchesse satin
woven on 8-end repeat. Many satins are made from continuous filament
yarns, continuous filament warp and crêpe twist weft, cotton
and many other fibres. The smooth, lustrous surface provides a
suitable ground for machine embroidery.
- Saxony : This refers to a superior quality woollen cloth
made from fine merino wool.
- Scrim : A loosely constructed open lightweight cloth,
which may be woven, knitted or otherwise. An important application
is in the stablisation of non-woven fabrics.
- Seerloop : A gingham-type cloth in which a few coloured
coarse warp yarns are spaced across the cloth. During weaving, these
coarse yarns are fed forwards at a slightly faster rate than the
ground ends so that they form loops on the surface of the cloth at
regular intervals down the fabric length.
- Seersucker : This cloth has interspersed puckered and
flat areas of fabric forming striped or check effects. Various
methods may be used to produce the effect which is sometimes known
as plissé.
- Serge : A piece-dyed 2/2 twill cloth of almost square
construction with a clear surface. The twill line runs at a low
angle to the weft. It is often made of wool but other fibres and
blends are used.
- Shalloon : A fabric used for lining uniforms and coats
made from 2/2 twill with crossbred (coarser than merino wool) yarns.
- Shantung : A plain weave spun silk fabric made from the
rather coarse irregular yarns with slubs produced by the wild
silkworm (Tussah). Now made from manufactured fibres which imitate
the irregularity of Tussah.
- Sharkskin : May be woven or warp-knitted and in either
case is compact and has a firm handle. The cloth often has a dull
appearance, which is achieved in the case of manufactured fibres by
delustring. Made in dress and suiting weights.
- Shot effect : A term applied to such fabrics as ‘shot
silk’, ‘shot taffeta’ and ‘shot lining’.
The effect is produced in fabrics made from lustrous yarns when the
warp and weft yarns are of contrasting colours. The fabric is
usually woven in plain or 2/2 twill weave. The colour if the fabric
depends on the angle of viewing and consequently in use the two
colours will appear simultaneously in different areas of the fabric.
- Silesia : A smooth lustrous faced 2/1 or 2/2 cotton
twill fabric used for linings in tailored garments. It is usually
piece-dyed but may be printed or contain woven stripes.
- Suede fabric : True suede, made from leather, is produced
by abrading the flesh side of the skin to raise a nap and develop a
soft, dull effect.
- Taffeta : Taffeta is a weft-way rib
cloths. Taffeta is characterised by indistinct weft way ribs which
are the result of using yarns of equal thickness in both warp and
weft and having many more ends than picks. The stiffness depends on
how closely woven it is, as does the rustling sound it produces when
rubbed. Various qualities of taffeta are available, ranging from the
lightweight, less stiff fabric used for linings to the closely woven
stiff dress taffeta with its tendency to fall into deep folds of a
typical character. Wool taffeta is a plain weave, lightweight fabric
produced from worsted yarns.
- Tapestry : Originally a wool fabric used in furnishing,
particularly wall hangings, having a design in colours produced by
inserting relatively short lengths of coloured weft into a uniformly
dyed warp, according to the requirements of the design.
- Tarlatan : A stiffened muslin-type fabric.
- Tartan : Originally a woollen cloth of 2/2 twill woven
in checks of various colours and worn chiefly by the Scottish
Highlanders, each clan having its distinct pattern. Other materials
and weaves are now used.
- Terry fabric : A looped warp-pile cloth generally made
from cotton. It may be colour woven or printed.
- Terry velour : After weaving, the tops of the loops are
cut off to produce a soft pile.
- Tie silk : This is a general term applied to silk
fabrics used for neckwear. They are produced in a wide range of
designs.
- Toile : An old French word meaning cloth and often
applied to plain or twill weave linen fabrics.
- Tricotine : A fine worsted cloth woven in a weave with
characteristics of a whipcord.
- Tufted fabric : Produced by passing simple woven fabric
through a tufting machine in which a series of coarse needles with
eyes punch continuous lengths of yarn through the cloth to form
loops on one face of the cloth. Used in the manufacture of carpets
and candlewick.
- Tulle : A very fine, lightweight net woven from silk
yarns in a plain weave. The term is also applied to net with
hexagonal mesh made by twisting the threads of a lace machine.
- Tussore : A plain weave dress weight fabric woven from
the coarse silk known as Tussah. The yarns are generally spun and
light-brown or écru in colour.
- Tweed : Originally a coarse, heavyweight, rough-surfaced
wool fabric for outerwear, made in southern Scotland. The term is
now applied to fabrics made in a wide range of weights and qualities
from woollen yarns in a variety of weave effects and
colour-and-weave effects. Bannockburn A firm cloth woven in 2/2
straight or herringbone twill from Cheviot woollen yarn. Its chief
feature is the use of 2-fold yarns alternating with dyed single
yarns of equivalent count in both warp and weft. The 2-fold yarns
are composed of different colour singles. Cheviot A crisp
coarse-textured tweed made from woollen yarns of Cheviot or
crossbred variety, available in weights suitable for suits and
overcoats. Some Cheviot overcoatings are heavily milled. Donegal A
plain weave fabric characterised by brightly-coloured slubs
introduced at intervals into the weft yarn before spinning. The
touches of colour are scattered throughout the cloth ands show up
usually against a light grey or natural coloured ground.
- Velour : A term applied to (1) a heavy
pile fabric with the thick pile laid in one direction or (2) a woven
or felt fabric with a raised nap laid in one direction to produce a
smooth surface. (3) warp-knit velour produced from long underlaps
which are raised and subsequently cropped to produce the cut pile.
- Velvet : A cut warp-pile fabric in which the cut ends of
the fabric form the surface. Originally the pile was of silk but now
other fibres are utilised.
- Velveteen : A cut weft-pile fabric in which the cut
fibres form the surface of the cloth. It is usually made from cotton
and may be dyed or printed.
- Venetian : An eight-end cotton satin lining, generally
mercerised and Schreinered. The term Venetian is also applied to an
overcoating similar to a Covert but made in a modified satin weave.
- Vicuna : A cloth, usually overcoating, made from the
fine downy hair of the Peruvian llama.
- Voile : This fabric is made from hard-spun yarns in a
lightweight, open texture. The weave is plain, approximately square.
The yarns are cotton, worsted, silk or manufactured continuous
filament.
- Warp : The vertical yarns of a fabric
in which a number of ends are arranged lengthways on a beam.
- Weaving : the process of interlacing warp and weft yarns
in a predetermined pattern to create a woven fabric.
- Weft : Yarn applied to the warp in a certain pattern
during weaving to acheive a predetermined pattern.
- Whipcord : These cloths have prominent steep twill lines
formed form the warp threads. There are more ends than picks. The
cord-like appearance of the twill lines is enhanced by the choice of
direction of twist and a clear finish. Whipcord is made in a wide
range of qualities, usually from cotton and worsted yarns.
- Winceyette : A fabric of about 140 g/m² in plain or
twill weave raised on one or both faces. Usually bleached,
piece-dyed or printed. Often used for women’s or children’s
night-dresses but, for the latter purpose it is now required by law
to be flame-proofed.
- Woollen : Yarns, fabrics or garments made from yarns
spun on the condensor system and containing
- Worsted : Fabric woven from yarn composed of combed
wool, in which the fibres are reasonably parallel.
- Zephyr : Fine, lightweight cotton
fabric used for dresses, shirtings etc. and ornamented with coloured
stripes, checks and cord.
- Zibeline : A heavily milled and raised woollen coating
or costume fabric. The long hairy nap is laid in one direction and
pressed flat to give a lustrous satin-like appearance. The inclusion
of hairs, such as mohair, enhances the appearance and enables the
fabric to retain its appearance rather better in use.
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