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- Afgaline : Plain-weave, all purpose
dress cloth, constructed using a woollen warp and weft, or a worsted
warp with a woollen weft.
- Antung : A plain-weave, slub-free silk fabric made from
wild silk.
- Armure : A dress fabric having a wavy rib running in the
weft direction which is produced by an armure weave.
- Astrakhan : A curled, lustrous pile is the typical
feature of this cloth, which imitates the fleece of the stillborn or
very young Astrakhan lamb. The effect may be produced by weaving or
knitting.
- Baize : A light-weight woollen felt used
for covering card tables etc.
- Barathea : The pebbled appearance is often produced by a
twilled hopsack or broken rib weave. Whilst it may be made from a
variety of fibres, worsted yarns are often used, or silk warp with a
worsted weft. Made in a range of weights.
- Batiste : A soft, fine, plain-weave cloth of about 80g/m².
Now made from cotton, although originally made from flax.
- Beaver cloth : A heavy woollen overcoating which is
intended to have the appearance of natural beaver skin. The lustrous
nap of short fibres is produced by milling the cloth and raising the
fibres, which are cut level and laid smoothly in one direction.
- Beaverteen : A strong, smooth-face, piece-dyed cotton
cloth for heavy ‘working’ trousers. The face of the
sateen-type structure consists of up to 150 weft threads per
centimetre, and the underside of the cloth is slightly raised. The
warp contains about 12 ends per centimetre. It is lighter in weight
than a moleskin cloth.
- Bedford cord : Rounded cords run in the warp direction
with fine sunken lines between. The cord may be emphasised by
wadding ends. The weave on the face of the cord may be plain or
twill. Worsted yarns are generally used for suitings and woollen
yarns for heavy trousers such as riding breeches but there is no
restriction on the choice of fibres that may be used in this weave.
In the lighter weights the construction may be used for dress
fabrics.
- Bengaline : A heavy pronounced weft-way rib fabric.
- Binding : Bindings are classes of narrow fabrics or
smallware and may be woven singly on a narrow loom or, more usually,
side by side on a broad loom. Each narrow fabric is woven with its
own shuttle, thus producing a selvedge in each side. Bias binding is
an exception to this method of manufacture. Bindings are designed to
protect, support and give a finish to garments or other articles.
- Blanket : Different colourways woven in small sections
to form a short full width piece consisting of a variety of designs.
- Blazer cloth : A heavily milled and raised woollen cloth
which may be printed with bold stripes. Used for sports coats.
- Bluette : A weft-faced cotton overall fabric made in a
2/2 twill with more than twice as many picks as ends. Typically
weighing about 250g/m².
- Botany : This refers to textiles made from merino wool.
The term botany suiting applies to high quality worsted suiting made
from this wool.
- Bouclé : A woven or knitted fabric with an
irregular surface created by the use of fancy yarns having a bouclé
or ‘curled’ appearance. It may be produced from a wide
range of fibres in dress or coating weights.
- Box cloth : An all-wool, woollen-spun fabric with a
fibrous surface and firm handle. The surface should be completely
covered with fibres so that no threads show. It is woven in a
variety of weaves, depending on the weight of the finished cloth
and, according to weight, used for such purposes as leggings,
coachman’s cloths and billiard cloth.
- Broadcloth : This term may be used in one of three ways.
It may simply refer to (a) suitings which are at least 135 cm wide
in the finished state, (b) lightweight poplin type fabric commonly
used as shirting in Canada and the USA or (c) a heavily milled
woollen cloth made in a twill weave from fine merino yarns. The
fabric is given a dress-face finish.
- Brocade : A fabric ornamented by a pattern produced by
Jacquard or dobby weaving, in which warp, weft or both sets of
threads float over the fabric surface to create the required
pattern. The basic structure or ground of the cloth is usually a
simple weave such as satin. The woven pattern or figure is often
enhanced by the use of continuous filament yarns.
- Brocatelle : A furnishing fabric carrying a figured
pattern in satin weave on a less lustrous background such as
taffeta.
- Broderie anglaise : A lightweight woven cloth
embroidered by a Schiffli machine. The embroidered pattern includes
holes in the design. Often made from cotton.
- Broderie anglaise : A lightweight woven cloth embroidered
by a Schiffli machine. The embroidered pattern includes holes in the
design. Often made from cotton.
- Calendered cloth : This refers to
cloth, frequently made from cotton or linen, which has been passed
during finishing between pairs of heavy rotating rollers, known as
bowls, which may be heated or unheated.
- Calico : A generic term for plain cotton cloth heavier
than muslins.
- Cambric : A fine lightweight, plain-weave cotton or
linen cloth which has been fairly closely woven and given a slight
stiffening and calendering to produce a smooth surface. Printed,
with a crease-resist finish, it is often used for dresses. Very
lightweight cambrics (about 65g/m²) are often used for
handkerchiefs.
- Candlewick : A fabric produced by patterned tufting and
used for bedspreads and dressing gowns.
- Canvas : This firm, rather stiff, strong warp-faced
cloth is usually made in a closely woven plain or double-end plain
weave from cotton, flax, nylon or polyester. Its weight can be
varied over a wide range according to its intended use.
- Casement : cloth A weft-faced, plain-weave curtain
fabric weighing about 150g per sq. metre. It may be woven from
cotton or manufactured fibres.
- Cavalry twill : A firm warp-faced cloth characterised by
steep double-twill lines. The cloth is often made of wool and is
produced in a variety of weights to meet the requirement of
breeches, rainwear and tailored dresses.
- Chambray : A plain-weave cotton cloth made with a dyed
warp and undyed weft, which gives the cloth a somewhat speckled
appearance. Used for dresses
- Cheese : cloth A cheap, soft, plain-cloth of open
construction and light in weight. Its principle use is as cheese
wrapping.
- Chenille cloth : A cloth woven with chenille yarn in the
weft.
- Chiffon : A sheer, very lightweight plain-weave cloth of
open square construction made from hard-twisted continuous filament
yarns. Silk or nylon are frequently used. The fabric has a very soft
drape. It may be piece-dyed or printed.
- Chiné : A term applied to woven cloth printed
with a design having a soft, blurred outline. This is produced by
printing the sheet of parallel warp yarns before weaving, with the
result that the printed outline does not keep exact register during
weaving and the outline appears blurred in the woven cloth.
- Chintz : A printed plain-weave fabric, usually of cotton
and lighter than cretonne. The cloth may be ‘semi-glazed’
by friction calendering or ‘fully-glazed’ by stiffening
with starch or other finish before friction calendering. Use for
curtains and chair covers.
- Ciré : A term used to describe fabrics with a
high mirror-like lustre produced by waxing and polishing the cloth
by mechanical means. If a cloth with a satin weave is used, it
further enhances the lustre by providing a very smooth surface.
- Cloqué : A fabric with a blistered figure effect.
This may be produced by weaving a double or compound fabric or by
knitting a double fabric on a rib Jacquard machine. The choice of
fabrics is unlimited.
- Coated fabric : A knitted, woven or nonwoven fabric on
which single or multilayers of a continuous polymeric adherent
coating is applied on either one or both faces of the fabric.
According to end-use a stiff or flexible coated fabric is produced.
- Corduroy : A cut-weft pile fabric in which the pile
forms cords running along the length of the cloth. It is generally
made from cotton and the pile may be printed. A velveteen may be cut
in such a way as to produce the appearance of cordury.
- Cretonne : A printed fabric, heavier than chintz,
commonly of cotton. It is usually unglazed and likely to carry a
floral design. Used for furnishings.
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