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Afgaline : Plain-weave, all purpose dress
cloth, constructed using a woollen warp and weft, or a worsted warp with
a woollen weft.
Antung : A plain-weave, slub-free silk fabric made from wild
silk.
Armure : A dress fabric having a wavy rib running in the weft
direction which is produced by an armure weave.
Astrakhan : A curled, lustrous pile is the typical feature of
this cloth, which imitates the fleece of the stillborn or very young
Astrakhan lamb. The effect may be produced by weaving or knitting.
Baize : A light-weight woollen felt used for
covering card tables etc.
Barathea : The pebbled appearance is often produced by a
twilled hopsack or broken rib weave. Whilst it may be made from a
variety of fibres, worsted yarns are often used, or silk warp with a
worsted weft. Made in a range of weights.
Batiste : A soft, fine, plain-weave cloth of about 80g/m².
Now made from cotton, although originally made from flax.
Beaver cloth : A heavy woollen overcoating which is intended
to have the appearance of natural beaver skin. The lustrous nap of short
fibres is produced by milling the cloth and raising the fibres, which
are cut level and laid smoothly in one direction.
Beaverteen : A strong, smooth-face, piece-dyed cotton cloth
for heavy ‘working’ trousers. The face of the sateen-type
structure consists of up to 150 weft threads per centimetre, and the
underside of the cloth is slightly raised. The warp contains about 12
ends per centimetre. It is lighter in weight than a moleskin cloth.
Bedford cord : Rounded cords run in the warp direction with
fine sunken lines between. The cord may be emphasised by wadding ends.
The weave on the face of the cord may be plain or twill. Worsted yarns
are generally used for suitings and woollen yarns for heavy trousers
such as riding breeches but there is no restriction on the choice of
fibres that may be used in this weave. In the lighter weights the
construction may be used for dress fabrics.
Bengaline : A heavy pronounced weft-way rib fabric.
Binding : Bindings are classes of narrow fabrics or
smallware and may be woven singly on a narrow loom or, more usually,
side by side on a broad loom. Each narrow fabric is woven with its own
shuttle, thus producing a selvedge in each side. Bias binding is an
exception to this method of manufacture. Bindings are designed to
protect, support and give a finish to garments or other articles.
Blanket : Different colourways woven in small sections to
form a short full width piece consisting of a variety of designs.
Blazer cloth : A heavily milled and raised woollen cloth
which may be printed with bold stripes. Used for sports coats.
Bluette : A weft-faced cotton overall fabric made in a 2/2
twill with more than twice as many picks as ends. Typically weighing
about 250g/m².
Botany : This refers to textiles made from merino wool. The
term botany suiting applies to high quality worsted suiting made from
this wool.
Bouclé : A woven or knitted fabric with an irregular
surface created by the use of fancy yarns having a bouclé or ‘curled’
appearance. It may be produced from a wide range of fibres in dress or
coating weights.
Box cloth : An all-wool, woollen-spun fabric with a fibrous
surface and firm handle. The surface should be completely covered with
fibres so that no threads show. It is woven in a variety of weaves,
depending on the weight of the finished cloth and, according to weight,
used for such purposes as leggings, coachman’s cloths and billiard
cloth.
Broadcloth : This term may be used in one of three ways. It
may simply refer to (a) suitings which are at least 135 cm wide in the
finished state, (b) lightweight poplin type fabric commonly used as
shirting in Canada and the USA or (c) a heavily milled woollen cloth
made in a twill weave from fine merino yarns. The fabric is given a
dress-face finish.
Brocade : A fabric ornamented by a pattern produced by
Jacquard or dobby weaving, in which warp, weft or both sets of threads
float over the fabric surface to create the required pattern. The basic
structure or ground of the cloth is usually a simple weave such as
satin. The woven pattern or figure is often enhanced by the use of
continuous filament yarns.
Brocatelle : A furnishing fabric carrying a figured pattern
in satin weave on a less lustrous background such as taffeta.
Broderie anglaise : A lightweight woven cloth embroidered by
a Schiffli machine. The embroidered pattern includes holes in the
design. Often made from cotton.
Broderie anglaise : A lightweight woven cloth embroidered by
a Schiffli machine. The embroidered pattern includes holes in the
design. Often made from cotton.
Calendered cloth : This refers to cloth,
frequently made from cotton or linen, which has been passed during
finishing between pairs of heavy rotating rollers, known as bowls, which
may be heated or unheated.
Calico : A generic term for plain cotton cloth heavier than
muslins.
Cambric : A fine lightweight, plain-weave cotton or linen
cloth which has been fairly closely woven and given a slight stiffening
and calendering to produce a smooth surface. Printed, with a
crease-resist finish, it is often used for dresses. Very lightweight
cambrics (about 65g/m²) are often used for handkerchiefs.
Candlewick : A fabric produced by patterned tufting and used
for bedspreads and dressing gowns.
Canvas : This firm, rather stiff, strong warp-faced cloth is
usually made in a closely woven plain or double-end plain weave from
cotton, flax, nylon or polyester. Its weight can be varied over a wide
range according to its intended use.
Casement : cloth A weft-faced, plain-weave curtain fabric
weighing about 150g per sq. metre. It may be woven from cotton or
manufactured fibres.
Cavalry twill : A firm warp-faced cloth characterised by
steep double-twill lines. The cloth is often made of wool and is
produced in a variety of weights to meet the requirement of breeches,
rainwear and tailored dresses.
Chambray : A plain-weave cotton cloth made with a dyed warp
and undyed weft, which gives the cloth a somewhat speckled appearance.
Used for dresses
Cheese : cloth A cheap, soft, plain-cloth of open
construction and light in weight. Its principle use is as cheese
wrapping.
Chenille cloth : A cloth woven with chenille yarn in the
weft.
Chiffon : A sheer, very lightweight plain-weave cloth of
open square construction made from hard-twisted continuous filament
yarns. Silk or nylon are frequently used. The fabric has a very soft
drape. It may be piece-dyed or printed.
Chiné : A term applied to woven cloth printed with a
design having a soft, blurred outline. This is produced by printing the
sheet of parallel warp yarns before weaving, with the result that the
printed outline does not keep exact register during weaving and the
outline appears blurred in the woven cloth.
Chintz : A printed plain-weave fabric, usually of cotton and
lighter than cretonne. The cloth may be ‘semi-glazed’ by
friction calendering or ‘fully-glazed’ by stiffening with
starch or other finish before friction calendering. Use for curtains and
chair covers.
Ciré : A term used to describe fabrics with a high
mirror-like lustre produced by waxing and polishing the cloth by
mechanical means. If a cloth with a satin weave is used, it further
enhances the lustre by providing a very smooth surface.
Cloqué : A fabric with a blistered figure effect.
This may be produced by weaving a double or compound fabric or by
knitting a double fabric on a rib Jacquard machine. The choice of
fabrics is unlimited.
Coated fabric : A knitted, woven or nonwoven fabric on which
single or multilayers of a continuous polymeric adherent coating is
applied on either one or both faces of the fabric. According to end-use
a stiff or flexible coated fabric is produced.
Corduroy : A cut-weft pile fabric in which the pile forms
cords running along the length of the cloth. It is generally made from
cotton and the pile may be printed. A velveteen may be cut in such a way
as to produce the appearance of cordury.
Cretonne : A printed fabric, heavier than chintz, commonly
of cotton. It is usually unglazed and likely to carry a floral design.
Used for furnishings.
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